Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90
|
Separating fact from fiction in that thread was not fun. I don't think the "30 minutes" estimate includes reading time there.
But it is possible. I did it. Following are my notes taken back in the day, soon after doing it. I did not do it this way for speed reasons, but because I did not want to rely on separating the outer end of the axle from the hub, etc. My general experience with axles is that they are easy until you run into the simple step that turns out being impossible. So having workaround methods can save you.
This is for my 2001 3.0i E53. Was written for my own notes (for next time), so refers to my own specific tools in some spots.
On 12/21/19 did both boots on left front of x5. If knowing both boots will be replaced, I think this is the best way to do it, without chance of getting stuck.
If I am SURE I want to leave the inner joint/boot untouched, it may make sense to try to pop out the outer joint.
Things not touched: axle nut, brakes, outer CV joint/axle (other than the boot, and wiping away grease; i.e., the splined axle end is not pulled out from the joint)
Jack up front end, both sides on jack stands (opposite side up, just in case need to rotate opposite wheel - not needed in this case). Wheel off.
Remove inboard end of lower control arm. 16mm bolt head, 18mm nut. When reinstalling, 100Nm + 90*. This was the only bolt/nut removed in the whole process.
Turn steering wheel all the way to whichever side is being worked on - moves tie rod (in front of axle) all the way out, creating space.
All clamps and old boots will need to be removed. Can do all now. At a minimum now, remove the inner boot's big clamp, pull the boot off at that end, wiping any grease that spills out.
Pull knuckle outboard as far as convenient (it will want to spring back), bracing it from returning using the adjustable Lisle hood prop ; 45900 HOOD PROP ;
https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/hood-prop
While doing that, pull the inner CV joint tripod out of the housing.
Wipe off grease from exposed inner CV joint.
Remove retaining ring on inner end of the tripod, using Craftsman Professional Retaining Ring Pliers 009-47386. On the right side, the tripod assembly was stuck, would have required removal with a small 3-jaw puller. On the left side, it was loose, moving freely even before the retaining ring was removed.
Tripod can then slide off (gear puller if needed) the end of the axle shaft. When reinstalling, the flatter of the two sides goes against the retaining ring.
At this point, I made some weak attempts to pop out the axle shaft from the outer CV joint, but it would not come, so ...
And this is why this is my preferred method - it completely avoids any risk of the outer CV's c-ring being stuck. The tradeoff is that the tripod may be stuck, but if so, there is easy full access to it, and it can be removed using a gear puller, rather than hammering and hoping the c-ring is aligned and not stuck deep in the rectangular groove of the splined axle end.
Cut / slide / remove all boots and boot clamps. Wipe everything as clean as possible.
So at this point, the outer CV joint is fully intact, with the axle still in it. The inner CV joint's tripod assembly has been pulled off. The inner end of the axle can be freely moved around due to all the space created by steering the tie rod to the outside, and using the hood prop tool to hold the knuckle out.
Slide on new boots + clamps, all in correct order.
Tripod on, oriented so the flatter of the two sides goes against the retaining ring. Retaining ring back on.
80g grease in each boot, clamps in place but not tightened.
Not sure if necessary, but at this point, before final clamp tightening, I jacked up the brake rotor so the suspension was level (just as the chassis begins to lift off the jack stand), and re-connected the control arm + bolt (100 Nm + 90*).
With the suspension leveled here, I made sure the boots were not pre-stressed or pressurized with air, then pinched all clamps using my Knipex 2-way Oetiker clamp tool.