Quote:
Originally Posted by X5chemist
EWS delete must be DME deleted too. The module bypass must be in place or the starter wouldn't crank. I know, I did it to mine while chasing down a parasitic draw. The good thing, it was reversible.
What's the difference in compression between cylinders? More than 10% on the next cylinder is not good.
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That's what I thought too, the EWS must be ok or it wouldn't crank, fuel pump wouldn't pressurize and no spark and I have all of those.
I added the EWS delete to my nearly virgin bin and flashed it in boot mode, then read it back and verified the settings in the read bin file. EWS delete was there, but no change in behavior.
Couple other weird things. There is a buzzing sound coming from near the intake manifold while the ignition is on/terminal 15, but I can't track it down. No codes thrown. Second is that those 2 cylinders on top the heater hose return on the right of the engine bay are really hot.i pulled out the laser temp gun and got readings close to 160F. I don't know what those do. There's a plug there but I'm not sure where the wire leads.
While cranking I measured 14.6v at the front terminals, so I think I should have plenty of power. Crank speed off 140 should indicate enough battery power too, though I've seen other systems crank no start with low voltage but three cranking sounded fine. Holley EFI comes to mind.
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Donald Foss
2003 E53 3.0i, 5L40e (for now)
- self-rebuilt engine, valves, SL oil pump
- ported heads, both sides
- N55 intake manifold, 70 lb injectors
- GTX 2860R-clone 60mm top-mounted turbo
- progressive slip diff
- under chassis cats
- extra sensors wired to Arduino
- 15" touch screen dash-mounted