Good to know about the lacquer thinner. I have an entire can of that where I've hardly used any. Used it when cleaning the block and the heads.

There are 3 pins going to the coil, in a triangle with the single point at the top. Which is the 12v pin? I can figure it out but knowing is easier.

Steps for EWS delete (Immobilizer Bypass) I did are from MS4X.net. https://www.ms4x.net/index.php?title...bilizer_Bypass

- Using RT TunerPro, edit the bin with their community patch list.
- Go to EWS, apply 3 patches.
- Save bin as a new file.
- Boot up ECU on my bench setup in boot mode by holding in a button switch that grounds one of the pins through a 10k resistor. I can always tell when the ECU comes up in boot mode because ms43flasher won't recognize the ECU and I have to
- establish communications with Renlovo ByteLogger first,
- read the ECU id,
- then go back to MS43flasher and flash the 512k bin file. It says it is writing the boot loader, then the program section, then the data.
- Once done, I power off the ECU and turn it back on without going into boot mode, and
- do a 512k read of the ECU with MS43flasher.
- I then take that file, open it in RT TunerPro and
examine the EWS settings to ensure this new bin file I just read says it has the patches installed.
- Next, I go to the car, disconnect the negative first, then positive cable, install the ECU in it's cramped little home, then plug the battery back in reverse order.
- After that, key in the ignition and see what happens.

Knowing that this engine floods easily, I don't crank back to back, or if I am, I do the full accelerator down for 10 seconds then release to clear the flood condition before I turn the key.

__________________
Donald Foss
2003 E53 3.0i, 5L40e (for now)
- self-rebuilt engine, valves, SL oil pump
- ported heads, both sides
- N55 intake manifold, 70 lb injectors
- GTX 2860R-clone 60mm top-mounted turbo
- progressive slip diff
- under chassis cats
- extra sensors wired to Arduino
- 15" touch screen dash-mounted