Quote:
Originally Posted by 80stech
The needle on the compression tester should jump and hold at each compression stroke so do that for 4 strokes, not more, not less. You need someone on the key or a remote starter button. Doing these kind of tests for the first time when you are having a problem like this is a problem in itself. I checked my spark gap tester from when I last checked some M54 coils to compare them and it was pretty close to 30,000 volts.
You can pretty much hear puffing back from the intake valves on the video so you better look into that again.
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When you said spark gap earlier I was thinking gapping the plug like I used to do on small block Chevies. I think you mean measuring the spark length with something like
https://a.co/d/2LiOaHi. I don't have one so I will in the morning, thank you Prime.
Even with my electronics background I I wasn't Anker to trigger the starter remotely without the wires and momentary switch getting really hot-which they should not have. I use an IP camera system with an old phone to watch under the hood while I'm in the seat. I see the needle bump, so I can count 4 of them. Wish I'd done that last year so I had a baseline with that method.
The intake is indeed puffing. It was worse with my N55 intake. That built pressure in the intake, the intake temp went over 150F, then would blow out my catch can relief valve. What you saw/heard was there stock intake.
Thank you everyone for your input. I'm accustomed to helping other people with anything/everything, not asking for help, and you've all been great.
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Donald Foss
2003 E53 3.0i, 5L40e (for now)
- self-rebuilt engine, valves, SL oil pump
- ported heads, both sides
- N55 intake manifold, 70 lb injectors
- GTX 2860R-clone 60mm top-mounted turbo
- progressive slip diff
- under chassis cats
- extra sensors wired to Arduino
- 15" touch screen dash-mounted