Quote:
Originally Posted by X5chemist
If you think the EWS delete is necessary, I'll help. It worked great on mine. If you install a fused kill switch, then you don't have to worry about someone using a screwdriver to start it.
Do you suspect the key electrical ignition part? I have an OEM one not being used. I can send it to swap out. I don't think those need coding. I swapped mine out trying to chase a parasitic drain.
I have a PDF to email. It details EWS testing. If you order the EWS deleted DME, only one more mod is needed. A fuse needs to be trimmed to fit the EWS plug. I used small snipers to trim it. A file will work too. Only edges need trimming. You can install a kill bypass switch there.
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I saw a "50's Kid" video on YouTube after I PM'd you last night, showing how to use the 30-amp fuse in the EWS plug to determine whether or not the EWS is going bad, and causing the no crank.
I'll try that first, as it will let me know if it's the EWS module gone bad or not. Please send me the PDF, because I need to pinpoint the problem, and delete the EWS if it is bad.
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01 BMW X5 E53,3.0i-5L40E, 7/13/01
topas-blau,Leder-grau,"resto-project car"
Here:
14 Lexus ES350,3.5L-U660E
09 HHR Panel,2.2L-4T45E
04 Chevy 2500HD,6.0L-4L80E
98 GMC Sierra 1500,5.7L-4L60E
Gone:
66 Chevelle Malibu 2dr ht.,327>441c.i.-TH350>PGlide/transbrake
08 Cobalt Coupe,2.2L-4T45E
69 & 75 C10s,350c.i.-TH350
86 S10,2.8L-700R4
73 Volvo 142,2.0L-MT4
72 & 73 VW SuperBeetles,1.6l-MT4
64 VW,1.2l-MT4
67 Dodge Monaco 500 2dr ht.,383c.i.-A727
56 Chevy 210 4dr,265c.i.-PGlide
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