Nice look….do they screw into the plastic, or attach some other way?
So far no show stoppers on the m62 build, or the transfer case. I really want to get the transfer case in before early January, when I plan on making the drive north to Iowa again. I’m probably just being OCD, but I feel 170k on a chain driven transfer case is far enough, and it’s a full-stop failure mode part on the non-x drive e53s. That said, there are 1000 other things on a 22 year daily driver old car that can me stranded on long drives to cold places too.
TIS details removing the stiffener plate, middle exhaust section, heat shields, and sway bar to get the transfer case off. I usually pay a price in time and frustration when I shortcut Bentley Or TIS, but I just don’t see why the stiffener needs to come off. I’ve got other things I want to do that require it’s removal, and I even have new stretch bolts on hand finally (I’ve reused the old one 3 or 4 times by now), so I guess I’ll see how things go time-wise on the transfer case R and R.
On the motor rebuild project, I dropped the pistons off at the first machine shop that is doing the head work. He’ll back up my one brain cell calculations and measurements and make sure there is enough meat in the tops to remove a max of 1.5mm from each valve pocket, and add that work to the list. I also dropped off new stem seals and valve keepers, but I need to bring him a wrist pin or two as well, as this helps him secure the piston(s) in his machine. I’m slowly acquiring new lifters as they aren’t too expensive (non BMW brand!), but add up when multiplied by 32. Springs are the big question and hopefully we’ll have an answer to if I can use S62 springs to save a (lot) of buck(s) soon.
the crank got dropped off at the other machine shop to be cleaned up and polished. For those interested few that may someday need to rebuild an M62, you can make out the main bearing journal dots on the weights in the below pic (yellow on #1 and green on #2):
These dots represent the OE bearing shell sizes used on the bearing caps. The block side gets all yellow color shells, but the caps get the shell that corresponds to the color dot. Within each color, there are several stages larger shells, to accommodate a crank journal that has been ground due to damage. This fact should be represented by a tic mark, or two or three, punched into the journal one counterbalance. Con-rod journals use the same color system, but not quite as complicated, and there are no color dots because the journals all use the same colors…one red shell and one blue shell per con-rod. Again, different sized shells of each color are available to accommodate re-worked con-rod journals.
TIS calls for plastiguaging each journal, with the new bearings. I did a couple and decided to switch to a high quality micrometer to measure each. These measurements were spot on to what TIS says an OE crank should measure, so I ordered OE shells of the appropriate colors. I will use plastigauge on journal 5, as the dot had worn off, or wasn’t there to begin with. It measured to an OE “yellow” size shell tho. I have all the new yellow block side shells on hand, and have ordered the cap shells. Once they arrive I’ll install the crank, a new rear main seal and carrier, and the rear coolant cover with a new gasket. I need to get an upper oil pan and pump, chain, etc. inbound. I also need to get my valve covers off to a powder coater for the full bake and coat makeover in crinkle black. They are in terrible shape, so the crinkle should do the best job hiding what doesn’t clean up.
Thanks to BimmerBreaker for setting me straight on the above.