Originally Posted by 80stech

You have a MAF voltage fault and you have the MAF voltage rigged on a switch right??
MAF is not connected to anything but the DME; I never even tried to do my remote adjustment idea, after more research.

Do the lights dim when you are trying to crank?
No, and I even looked at the sunsushade lighting; all looks normal.

Is the battery in good shape?
I think it is; one year old, and charged every day on a Battery Tender, and never a problem cranking...until the battery needed replacement, and now.

I think the EWS can cause no-crank or no start depending on what conditions are met but I don't remember exactly how that works.
I'll charge the battery tomorrow, before I attempt to crank it, and I'll use my Foxwell NT510 to scan for codes. The Torque Pro app is good to use as a dashboard display, but is lacking on locating faults. I'd use my Foxwell for an active dash display while driving, but the screen's too small to see. Probably time to upgrade to the NT710, but Foxwell won't confirm if I can move my BMW, GM, and Lexus programs to it, from my NT510.

It would have been good to get a bigger and maybe better gauge along with some fuel line hose to splice your adapter to so you could get a more accurate idea of your fuel pressure and easier to read while driving. With a longer hose it would be good to have the proper bleed valve at the gauge but you can probably get away without that.
My gauge is accurate as far as I can tell, the extension hose I made is 5ft, so it allows the gauge to be taped to the windshield, and it has a bleed valve. Should I rent another? No guarantee of more accuracy.