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workingonit · #25 12-30-2025, 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

Confirm you do/n't have voltage and buttons work before disassembly. My posts on the topic show exactly where to poke needles to measure voltage and if you press each button you can see the voltage drop if the click switch inside is working. (you can also charge via the pins: i recommend 20mA up to 3.3v).

If the buttons all work but remote function doesn't, use a remote tester found where they sell batteries (my local Home Depot has one) to test if key is sending a signal and if so then re-sync key.

I managed to cut a trace but not with the Dremel: a drill bit. I drilled through to add two cute little M2.5 Allen head screws to hold the keys closed and got too close to the traces on one of the four holes.

–awr–

Using Tapatalk VIP on iPhone

My OEM key fob has no problems with remote functions, but with intermittent EWS faults; I'm wondering if my recent no crank-no start problems might come from the damaged circuit board inside. I cut it open for the first time, to change the (at that time) original 20 year-old battery, and cut too deeply with the utility knife. I glued it back together BEFORE I tested it, regretfully, and had to cut it open again, damaging the circuit board even more.

The OEM case/shell is a mess, and that's why I bought a new aftermarket case w/precut blade awhile back, knowing that it was needed for the next repair. Might as well put in a fresh VL2020 battery, too.This time, i'm only going to lightly glue the case together (if the tabs don't hold it shut, and put a silicon sleeve over it, just in case it opens up by itself.

If & when I get the X back on the road, I'm planning to get a new diamond key...after years of worrying "when will my key fail?"....

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