A few more lessons to add. On installation, I didn't use a single wobble extension. The two lower arm positions worked great for installation. Using new bolts worked great with an E14 socket. The slotted bolt ends did help. I also used a cordless ratchet to drive in bolts when possible. The emergency brakes were adjusted. The rotors were fitted tight. The inside handle grabs brakes grab well about half way up. Six ton jack stands work great. The 6 ton stands hold the X5 up about 1" off the ground. 3 ton stands were set as back up under the rear subframe. Right behind the diff works great. The stands are about 1" short of actually holding it up.
For installation, the arm should be at the lowest position. The shock unbolted. Install the two lower forward bolts. A short extension and socket work. Snug up the bolt. It will align and hold the bearing in place. Jack up the lower arm to max height without lifting the body off the jack point. The other three bolts can go in. All three can be torqued before going back to the forward lower two bolts. The shaft pushed in easily into the new hub. A little WD40 helped. I grabbed the shaft and pulled into the hub easily.
A short test drive cleaned up rotor rust and paint. An annoying knocking sound is finally fixed. It was the notorious loose brake pad!
I've been chasing that noise for months. All the suspension parts were previously checked. A recent post lead me to look at the pads. The RR was knocking a low speeds. All I hear now are tire road noise and wind.
Black hitch paint was used on the rotors and calipers. It's a high temp black paint. A good car wash with undercarriage option washed off dirt and tree grime.