Quote:
|
Originally Posted by JCL
I don't think that is an oversimplification. Yes, these vehicles can have this problem. Yours didn't. You have assumed that a stumble on idle one time was caused by a frozen separator when in fact it may not have been.
You speak about the production window as if it applies to 2003 vehicles. It is a ten year problem, BMWs have had this issue for that long. Yours is no more likely to have the problem than any other year, or than many other makes of vehicles that use similar crankcase vents.
I wouldn't put the heated lines on, simply because it can fail with them; they aren't a sure fix. They simply decrease the odds of it happening if your vehicle is predisposed to freezing up. That predisposition starts with many short trips and condensation in the separator, it doesn't start with leaving it parked in the cold. If you do a lot of very short trips, then yes, consider the heated lines as insurance. Apart from the lines, however, the best thing you can do is move to an extreme service interval for oil changes, every 7500 or even every 5000 if you want to triple the manufacturer recommendation. Check for signs of water in the oil around the oil filler cap (a white paste). It may be worth having the separator/crankcase vent cleaned out or changed, without going to the heated hoses (they aren't putting any heat down when you start it and it is very cold, and so wouldn't have impacted your stumble if in fact it was caused by a frozen separator).
You imply that it is a sure bet that your engine will eventually fail. Statistics don't support that conclusion. Hundreds may fail eventually. Many thousands have been built. The ones that failed had a heavy buildup of moisture in the lines over time. It is a simple actuarial calculation, nothing more. You can bet that BMW is far ahead by waiting until some fail. Your best bet to ensure you don't get stranded is simply to maintain the vehicle properly, and more frequently given the extreme conditions.
|
Whether it has this problem or not, I think I deserve more than lip service from the vehicle manufacturer. If they convince me via a process that is not "our policy is..." then I will happily do nothing.
The vehicle also has pre-paid maintenance. However, nothing in that schedule will address this concern.
FWIW, I have 20 years in the oil industry and have been a lubricant formulator for 15 of those.. I actually worked on the original 'black sludge' issues that afflicted Euro cars in Europe in the 80's and 90's.
With all due respect, changing a premium synthetic oil more often is not going to have a major impact on the mechanism for this particular potential mode of failure. However, I am happy to hear a reasonable technical argument that relates to the lubricant that may support this theory. Checking the separator and hoses often is a better option.
In essence, one of the bye products of combustion is water and how it is dealt with is the major issue...if the engine is allowed to warm throughly, the water is driven off or evaporates and will not collect or freeze at local cold spots. Short trips in cold climes do not drive off/evaporate the water. Whereas some oils (Group I base stocks) can be proven to be worse in the now, defunct Sequence IID test, invariably , premium fluids with genuine synthetic base stocks (not Group III) experienced zero problems and never exhibited any emulsion sludge in the breather hose.
Lubricants with poorer (read cheaper) base oils can be made to perform better in respect of emulsion sludge with very targeted and specific additives. However, the degradation with time will still make poorer oils worse in the long run than than genuine synthetic premium.
To be really technical, the polarity of the Group I base oils means they can solubilize more of the water generated during combustion wheras a true synthetic base oil (not Group III) is extremely non polar and will not solubilize the water so it tends not to get carried to areas of the engine such as the oil separator where it will do harm.
As you rightly state, driving habits are the biggest casual factor combined with a design oversight, weakness or fault depending on your perspective.
Outside that, the comment that regular maintenance is my best option is a little vague... if you have some very specific not lubricant related suggestions, I am happy to hear them.
On a personal note, it would be interesting to hear what oils folks were using on those vehicles that have experienced catastrophic failures .. I will do my research on what my stealer is using in my vehicle and if I am concerned, I may change the oil out now for something I know to be better.
One final note, the algorithm that BMW use in determining oil change interval uses, along with other factors, includes the number of key on, key off cycles so a consumer that does a lot of short trips where the vehicle gets started and stopped a lot and sits idle SHOULD have the oil change interval light illuminate sooner.
David