OK. I don't recall holding the brakes because I was cognicent of the fact that this transfer may occur. I should have however used ebrake/N and downshifting. I may not have allowed sufficient time on highway for cool down (only about 10 minutes). The brakes did still seem very hot when i put the car in the garage, but then again its Phoenix.
You are right about it stopping fine before i changed the brakes. Something must be off, I agree. In my mind it can be one of two things:
1) something in front not torqued right (i.e. carrier bracket buckling)
2) something uneven on rotor/not bedded in properly yet
Regardless. I need to jack the front up to do a temporary saran wrap fix on the CV boot until my replacement part comes in later this week. I am going to do a full inspection. Calipers seem to be on pretty good though when I try pushing them with my hand.
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Originally Posted by FSETH
I don't think you would be able to see pad residue on the rotor in all cases. I am not positive though. Someone who knows better may chime in on this one.
I just keep going back to the fact that if your X was stopping fine before the brakes change, then something you did must be off a little bit. I changed all 4 rotors and pads and broke them in with Dave Z's recommendation and everything worked like a champ. No noise, vibration or pulling at all. I used Centric rotors though, they don't have that think zinc coating on them. It could be a crazy coincedence and you have an issue with a suspension component, but I would stick with the brakes first.
When you do the rebedding process, you can use the brakes after you do the 8 (or whatever #) stops, just don't sit at a stoplight the brakes held. That is when the pad material will transfer. You can also use the steptronic trans mode to downshift and instead of braking.
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