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Originally Posted by Sergey77
Jeff,
I'm just unaware on the timing issue of those challenges for BMW - to your experience, how often would I have to diagnose and change the oil separator granted autostart usage, say, each day during 4 months, every 2 hours for 15 min?
Also, they changed the separator placement from below the engine (on M62) to its top (on N62), and probably modified it - maybe it was the cure? Or no?
In regards to the questions,
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The oil separator can go for a year without an issue, in my opinion. Many have posted that they have had problems after several years of not maintaining the oil separator. If you clean it after a year and there is no clogging, stretch the interval longer next time.
You don't need to just worry about the oil separator. You need to change the engine oil more frequently, and accept higher wear on the engine from the cold starts.
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2) When using 0W.., there is a chance of blowing the engine on high revs due to the rupture of its fair thin film, causing metal engine parts contact each other without a proper lubrication.
At least, BMW recommends 5W30 for my N62.
I was a Honda fan somedays and the only models that were officially instructed to use 0-viscose oils were S2000 (with its 9000rpm redline) and NSX, both with a definitely high compression ratio and extremely small clearances, between, for instance, cylinder wall and a piston.
Zero indexed oil was the case for engine shots when using on engines with lower tolerances, as discussed widely over the Internet.
Or I may be misleading something.
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I don't agree. There is no risk to the engine from using 0-30 in a cold climate, if you let the engine warm up properly, avoiding high revs until the engine is at full operating temperature. The 0 refers to how the oil acts at low temperatures, the 30 refers to how it acts at higher temperatures. Thus, a 0-30 and a 5-30 will act the same once the engine is up to temperature. The 0 just gives you better pumping at low temperatures, and thus easier cranking.
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3) Thank you, noted. But again, why do you believe that, say, 90C of the engine after 15-20 mins of idling are lower than 90C on load, being insufficient to vaporize that condensate from the CVV tube?
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Getting the engine hot won't get the condensate out of the CVV tube. It will boil the moisture out of the engine oil. Over time, the moisture in the engine oil condenses in the tube. Once it is there, only cleaning out the CCV and/or replacing the tubes will fix it, high engine temperature doesn't make it better. 15-20 minutes of idling won't get the engine hot, whereas 15-20 minutes under load will do so. Your questions are focusing only on the crankcase ventilation valve, and I would worry just as much about the rest of the engine.
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4) I will check with officials, as there have been a number of threads reporting this problem (with the Webasto heater).
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You don't need to run the heater continuously, just prior to starting the vehicle. If the battery is going down from running the timer and circulating pump, then run the heater for less time. The heat comes from the fuel in the Webasto, not from the battery, so it doesn't have a high battery draw.
No armwrestle on the Porsche, if you like it go for it. Do they have an Arctic package for it?