
04-05-2009, 05:53 PM
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Member
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Nordschleife
Posts: 5,486
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The dipstick is a redesigned part just so you know. Post # 12
http://www.xoutpost.com/x5-e53-forum/...ng-else-2.html
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jr ///MSport
There is not enough room to remove the O/S along with the hoses. The old version (non insulated) hoses will easily snap away from the O/S and allow you to remove it. Although disconnecting the hoses can be done, they usually snap because of the years of engine heat. Save some aggravation and buy new hoses.
The updated version of the O/S kit comes with a new dipstick, and costs about $400 for everything. The old dipstick has a smaller drain tube that goes back into the crankcase, this is where the whole problem starts. Oil and condensate have mixed, and allowing it to go back into the crankcase will allow the condensate to boil off. It works in theory, but the smaller opening soon sludges up and then the oil/water mixture is trapped inside the oil seperator. In extreme freezing weather conditions after sitting overnight the condensate inside the seperator freezes the valve in a closed position. When you start the car, pressure inside the crankcase builds up and usually blows off the valve cover gasket. This brings us back to the smaller drain tube that connects to the oil dipstick. If the updated dipstick tube isn't used, chances are, you will have the same problem later. The updated dipstick is a much larger opening and uses a full size drain all the way to the oil pan. The insulated O/S along with the improved drain will give time for the condensate to drain away in colder temperatures before it freezes the valve shut.
Replacing the O/S without the new designed dipstick will not alleviate your problem. But there is something to can try to buy some longevity in the repair.
Remove the dipstick entirely and using a metal wiper blade insert, run it through the drain line to clear out the opening. Wire usually isn't strong enough.
I hope this information helps those that are having this problem to understand what is actually going on with this system. The job is tight enough without having to do it twice and using just the regular replacement (non insulated) parts is only a temporary fix. Consider replacing the dipstick with the updated version so the system can work properly. Maybe you won't be on the side of the road with smoke boiling out of the hood because the valve cover gasket blew again, in sub-zero temperatures, because if it's going to fail again, it will fail when it's extremely cold outside.
JR
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