Ok, I finished my install and would like to add my .02 cents worth. THANKS Jim M for you added comments since they helped!
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Originally Posted by Jim M
sinX5, I have a few more thoughts that may help if you plan to do the installation yourself.
1. I have seen a couple of non-OEM tow hitch receiver installations. None of them looks anywhere near as nice as the BMW OEM installation. I think you should take a look at some finished products, and decide which ones would be acceptable to you on your X5. To me, the OEM was the only way to go.
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Regarding non-OEM, if you do a search, you will see my comments after doing an exhaustive research. I found that the non OEM REMOVES the ability for you to use the 2 "tow hook" thread locations. Mind you, this is not just for towing the vehicle. This is also used to mount bike racks and other accessories. See my pic and where I point out the location of these tow hook threads.
Also, there is a "bumper support" at the top that looks like a handle. The non OEM's DO NOT have this. I would assume that this prevents the bumper (which is only plastic) from collapsing if someone steps on it to, for example, load something on the roof.
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Originally Posted by Jim M
3. If you decide to install the hitch receiver yourself, take a look at ranchhand’s thread. One thing I would suggest is that the reflectors which cover the two mounting bolts are easier to remove than ranchhand suggests. I didn’t use the long screwdrivers as ranchhand suggested. You can just lay down on the garage floor at the back of the X5, and reach up there and release the spring clips. Make sure the car hasn’t been run for some time, so that the exhaust system is cool. You can’t avoid brushing your arm up against it. Your arm has to reach around the exhaust pipe – I found that I had to use my left hand on the left side reflector, and my right hand on the right side reflector, because of the particular curvature needed. Look at ranchhand’s pictures, and just reach up there and locate the spring clips by feel. Squeeze the two spring clips together, and the reflector pops right out! It can be re-installed from the outside by just pressing in place.
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+1 With Jim's comments above, it made it much easier. Also, in Ranchhand's thread, there was one screw that you don't have to remove that holds the heat shield down. However, even if you remove it, there's no harm, no foul.
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Originally Posted by Jim M
5. You will need a pop rivet installing tool, available at Ace Hardware or similar stores. If you don’t already have one, buying the tool is much cheaper than paying your dealer service department to install the two pop rivets.
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+1
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Originally Posted by Jim M
6. You will need four of the trim retainers that hold the wheel well trim in place. Those have to be destroyed to remove them, and you will have to install new ones. They are less than $1 each at your dealer’s service department, but order them in advance, because I find that many dealers don’t have them in stock. You also need a large pop rivet installing tool to install those, but once again, you can buy the rivet tool for less than the dealer charges to install the four rivets.
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I actually installed the "removable" ones. I didn't want to bother with the pop rivet tool again and I wasn't sure if the pop rivet tool that I had would work with this plastic. Anyway, I used the same exact trim "removable" trim retainer that is located in the same wheel well located a few inches away from the ones that you have to remove.
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Originally Posted by Jim M
7. The trailer control module is supposed to be installed in a "module carrier" (which the service department refers to as a "module support"). If your X5 already has one or more modules installed in the rear cargo compartment, it will already have a module carrier. If your vehicle doesn’t have a module carrier (mine didn’t), it must be added! That’s a simple job, involving just the module carrier and two plastic nuts. But first, you have to get the module carrier and the two fasteners. My dealer provided those under warranty, at no charge, but I can’t guarantee that your dealer will. Look for the module carrier before you start, and have the dealer order the module carrier and fasteners before you start, if your vehicle doesn’t already have them....
9. I wrapped the wiring harness with duct tape (for extra protection, as recommended by the instructions) and labeled all of the wires with a label maker before I started the installation. In that way, all of the wrapping and identification could be done at the work bench in comfort and good light, rather than while straining to reach into the cargo compartment or stretched out under the car.
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My X5 is a March 2008 build. It already had the module carrier. The wiring harness that I had was already wrapped with black electrical tape. So maybe they updated the kit?
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Originally Posted by Jim M
12. When you are pushing the wires into the back of the fuse panel, double and triple check to make sure that you have the correct place to plug each wire in. You will need a pair of needle nosed electrical pliers to get the plugs in. They are fairly hard to get in. Again, make sure you are in the right place before you press them in. I’m not sure how you would ever get one of them out if you get it in the wrong place!
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I actually found the wiring to have taken me the longest. First, the "3 wire BUS" cable was very well hidden. I took pictures to show you where mine was. At first, I thought that they omitted it! See the pics of these orange and green wires that seem to have been encased in some sort of plastic casing. DO YOU KNOW WHAT THIS IS FOR? I finally found the 3 wire BUS plug and I am pointing to it with my finger.
Also, it was a pain trying to get these pins into the slots. I finally used a small screwdriver to help me drive the pins into the slot. As Jim stated, MAKE SURE YOU ARE PUTTING THEM IN THE RIGHT SPOT.
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Originally Posted by Jim M
15. I didn’t get any error codes from the trailer control module after I installed the hitch. However, you will have to have your car computer re-coded by the dealer after the installation. I understand that the hitch control module coding takes less than an hour. That is billable time for the service department. If your car is still under warranty, any other re-coding should be covered by warranty (defect code 72 60 93 02 00, according to the BMW instructions). I was glad that was covered by warranty, because that took six hours on my car!
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I got a "AWD 4x4 DSC" error of some sort when I first started the car. But then it went away. Now, I can no longer find it when I try to retrieve any stored error codes.
Lastly, the whole thing took me about 5 hours to install. The biggest time saver for me was the cutting of the bumper. I had a small reciprocating saw that made a real nice precision cut. Also, I didn't use the "exact" template that was shown on the back of the bumper. It seemed like they wanted you to remove more trim than necessary.
Lastly again, I PAINTED the exhaust with a black "grill" paint. It makes it looks tons better...
Lastly lastly again, I took some pictures with and without the black trim.