I actually grounded the speedo wire w/ the parking brake wire. I did the bypass after finding a writeup on www.avic411.com and just relocated that yellow/black wire to another pin and it worked like a champ. Movies no longer cut out after going 20mph now.

I cut the 5 wires to the OBC and relocated it to the glove box so I don't loose the ability to program the clock, date, MPG, etc. Other than blowing a fuse in the rear because I was dumb and a couple wires touched because I forgot to shut off the ignition, it worked out great. When the fuse blew, the OBC's BC button wouldn't work, but I could still program options from the stalk. The radio would stay on regardless of the key being on or not, so I spent 20 minutes pulling and checking every fuse in the glovebox before I found the blown 7.5amp in the trunk, then the OBC and radio shutting off w/ the ignition was back to normal.

Will hooking up the speedo wire prevent me from still being to watch movies and operate the nav while driving? Does it feed anything to the AVIC for the logging stuff it can do, or will it just get me more accurate GPS positioning. The GPS is pretty damn accurate as is, so I wonder if it's worth pulling the cluster and stereo back out just to connect that wire.

After testing various locations for the mic - on the headliner between my radar detector and the rearview, next to the A pillar where the air bag meets the headliner (great for me, couldn't hear anything in the passenger seat), on the dash right in the upper left corner of the bezel (looked funny, but best sound quality), I finally decided to do what I had originally planned...to drill a hole in one of the blank panels to the left of the Homelink controller and having it pointing downwards. It stick out just enough to have the front and all the side openings of the mic visible, but doesn't hang down much more the buttons on the Homelink, so it doesn't look odd. Too late now, but I still wonder if splicing into the factory mic would have worked better. I'll take better pics today since my digi is broken and my cell doesn't have a flash.

I still need to wire in the PAC unit, so I'm still searching around for which wire I need, and if I'm supposed to splice into the wire, or cut it completely so it's dedicated to the PAC.

I'm still curious how you cut the panel cover in front of the sub, or did you cut it and have the fabric recovered?

I then need decide if I'm going to change how I run signal to my amp. The amp is a Rockford Fosgate JH300 monoblock amp that runs 300 watts to a single L5 in a modified stock enclosure. The amp has hi and low inputs, and I've been using the hi level while using the stock stereo. I tried running a set of RCA's to the rear, but I ended up breaking the tail off my fish tape trying to pull the RCA's under the rear carpet and under the center console I've removed the center console before, but I don't really wanna have to do it again. I ran the RCA's around the outside of the car to test the signal, and once running via RCA's, I've definately got a ground loop since the sub hums this way only I Google'd the pros and cons of hi level vs low level, so I'm on the fence about just leaving it running hi level since it's already there, i'm running better power to the trunk, I've got a bass knob to adjust the gain and I wouldn't have to deal w/ my grounding issue.

Your .02?

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