|
Fiberglass Sub box
Hi guys,
sorry I've been abscent for a while, had my whole truck apart in about 1200 pieces.......Here's an update on the glass box.....I tried both sides to create a fiberglass box with no success... Here's the problem. Once you get the layup done and removed you'll find that the flanges that the cargo covers fit against will prevent you from getting your enclosure into the space. If you make it narrower than the flanges you're only going to get a box of about .4 cu ft which is way too small to put any descent sounding 10" sub that can actually move any air. Anyway, Here's what I did....I measured the distance between the wheelwells where they meet the back seats it about 42" wide. My truck has reclining rear seats, so I moved them to the farthest point of reclining. Using an angle guide (compass) I calculated the angle of the rear seats, sorry I forget the number..... I then created a trapazoid MDF box approx 8.5" high and 11" deep. It actually only takes up about 5" of cabin space. I put the bottom of the box about 2.5" above the floor of the cargo space by leaving the edge pieces long. (I'll attach a pic) I then mounted a jl 10w6v2 firing down. I carpeted the box with the same color as the interior and It is amazing......I got about 1.5 cu ft of airspace inside the box which was way too much for this speaker especially considering the partial isobaric pressure created by the floor of the cargo area so I filled approx .6 cu ft of the box with closed cell foam blocks (the kind that comes in packaged goods like a tv or speakers). These blocks will take up airspace with little weight gain. Also, you can tune your box by either adding more foam or taking some out. I've found that the cabin gain in these trucks is a little tricky so you'll need to do some tuning otherwise your box will be boomy in the 100-125hz range. I crossed mine about 73hz at 24db/octave. I've got a jl 500/1 which I mounted on the bottom of the box for ease of removal.
|