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Well, to answer the last 2 posts, the rebuild kit did not come with snap rings. - I'll confess to looking at how the manual showed and described compressing the clutch packs and taking various measurements, and decided not to worry about the specific clutch packs in that regard. I do have the tools to do so, but not the fancy jig they used to compress (preload) the clutch disks for measurement. I did mic the old plates and new plates for comparison. I expected an obvious difference in thickness, but aside from the pack that had been slipping, the thicknesses of individual plates was VERY close. So, I cheated on the clutch pack measurements, and apparently I got away with that. For those not specifically familiar with what we are discussing, the clutches "float" in their spaces. When fluid pressure is so directed, the fluid slides a "piston" (best term I can think of) against the clutch pack and by compressing it, locks up one part of the planetary gear sets. 2 of the clutches, "D" and "E" are actually keyed to the trans housing by the assemblies they fit into, and thus don't turn, but when engaged act as a brake for parts of the planetary sets. See attachment powerflow diagram. The cone springs to be removed in order to remove the pistons do not serve to compress the clutches, they are to disengage and pull the piston back when fluid pressure is removed. If you think about it, if you have a chamber full of pressurized fluid spinning at tranny speed, removing the pressure source is only part of the disengagement. Without the retract springs, the fluid's centrifugal (sp?) force in that chamber would prevent it's bleed off through the center shaft orifices and cause that pack to "drag." The clutch pack clearances referred to are to ensure the clearance is close enough to engage within spec, but loose enough so the released clutch doesn't have drag. Kinda like disk brake pads - close enough to apply and brake normally, but not so tight they drag on the disk when not braking.
One area I did NOT cheat on was end-play measurements with a dial indicator. Although I could not check certain end play measurements until the replacement part arrived, I did not want to bolt down the oil pump/bell housing assy and find later that clearance was below spec and risk binding when parts expanded, or even binding right off the bat. The spec is tight, but I was right in the middle on end play.
As far as the fluid goes, just telling folks what I did. I probably would have used the called for Esso stuff if was going to leave the tranny buttoned up for another 95K or whatever. Shrug. I'll point out that unlike the pretty green sticker advocating lifetime fill, the actual ZF trans manual does not take that position. This car is kind of a hobby/toy. I got it cheap because the dealer couldn't move it when gas prices were up, everything works, and it's fun. But I'm not going to put a lot of dough into it.
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