Couple things:

We accomplished this valley pan job but the torque specs in your DIY caused 3 nuts to strip the intake manifold bolts than seat in the Engine. Your list shows 21ft lbs for these nuts, 10 of em, that hold down the intake cover to the top of the engine. We immediatly stripped 3 of em doing this on our 2002 4.4 X5. After more researching on these torque specs and finally calling BMW service here in Colorado we had a tech on the phone who said NO WAY on those specs. He said 14-17NM which is around 10lbs or so. Be carefull-because if you strip em you then need to get the stripped bolts out of the engine and replace them with new ones or use a second nut to push down the stripped nut to the correct torque specs for the intake cover. All other specs looked good especially the valley pan.

We also replaced the 2 hoses that attached to the oil drain pipe leading to the bottom of the oil pan, the other end is the OSV. They were mush and the drain pipe was full of crispy gunk, especially the hollow bolt at the end of the oil drain pipe, so we got those off and cleaned these out as well. We also replaced the fuel breather purge solenoid that attaches to the tube that leads to the left front of the intake, the little inlet. The intake at this inlet was covered in oil and dirt, leaking. Replacing this also stopped the hard start after a fuel-up at a gas station and was throwing a code for Evap and large fuel air leak.

Fuel rail and electronics: We simply lifted the fuel rail with the electronic boxes and injectors all out at once-didnt even need to pull those little wire clips off-there is no need as it all pops out the with the fuel rail and we just hung it to the underside of the hood out to the passenger side. Also didnt need to disconnect battery at all-just pull the fuel pump fuse and your good, just dont go crazy and fire up the vehicle.

BTW our valley pan was dry even though we had the mystery coolant leaking for the last 10-15K miles. After doing this job we believe the water manifold in back was the culprit. When we began to loosen the bolts for the water manifold they literally were untightening by hand, very loose. Even though we did see coolant around the edges of the valley pan, none was inside. The water manifold can easily leak all over the valley pand and around everything to the bottom. After replacing the gaskets on the water manifold, valley pan, O-rings to the pipes on both ends, the OSV, the PCV plate, and the 3 gaskets of the intake we cleaned the entire intake from one end to the other. Oh yea, there was also a good chunk of crispy goo at the tube going into the valve cover from the OSV. It looked like it was just about clogged and would likely cause the infamous "burpe" to blow a valve gasket in the near future.

In the end this job took me, and a friend who mainly surpervised, 4 days with running to the the part store a half a dozen times and to the dealership a few times, but more or less taking my time with it making sure everything was cleaned and replaced during the process. I have pics of everything also if anyone needs em posted. Oh yea because we cleaned the oil drain pipe we drained the oil in the process, we changed the oilas well. So far no leaks.