Originally Posted by aweber05
I think our problem was IDENTICAL, which is why I might be able to help you! I am lucky enough to work at an electronics design company, so there is no shortage of people here who can help me troubleshoot crappy circuit boards. I spent a little time yesterday with a friend and a multimeter checking everything we could think of in the circuit. We narrowed it down to a problem with the board. Since there was a corner of the board that was slightly corroded, I was fairly sure the problem was there. We got lucky, it was the trace in the bottom corner of the board, on the side of the relay that controls the upward direction of the motor! The reason it wasn't working is that the trace on the board is really small, and it had corroded enough that it esentially had no conductivity anymore. All we had to do was solder a little "jumper" wire from the node where the trace began to the next component. Here is a picture: http://s15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...6-51-50_97.jpg

Are you good with electronics/have access to a multimeter? I am guessing that your problem is exactly the same as mine, since we both lost the same half of the window's functionality. It's worth a shot better than paying $165+ for a new window switch right?!

Let me know if you have more questions!

on receiving the above message the first evening that i got the chance I set about trying the fix. I removed and dismantled the window switch. I could see a slight flaw in the print but nothing that would make one suspicious of any shorts in the circuit especially as I do not yet posess a magnifing glass. I took out my multimeter and sure as hell the short shows up. As you can see from the photo below fitting of the red jumper wire has sorted the window switch. I now know that my problem never was the regulator or the motor.

Now on to the next problem. My passenger door is now stuck shut, unopenable from the outside and inside



Many thanks to aweber05