It is messed up tight in there on the 4.8. Plus the mounts are not on center in relation to the engine. The pass side, is more forward, and is much easier. Maybe, just maybe if you take it out first, you might be able to rotate the engine just a bit more, but I doubt it. What the mech did, was actually unscrew, the entire subframe, and supported it all on stands. Then used another stand to lift the engine on that side only. When that was at the safe max point, as in not to damage any wires or hoses, one mechanic hung on the rear of the driver side subframe, while the other rotated and wiggled the mount out. It came out of the mount holder pretty easy, it just wouldn't come out of the area. He was about to take out the axle at one point, but decided to give it another shot with a second set of hands. Oh, he didn't even take off the wheels. The collection of tools he has though to get in there is pretty amazing. You will definitely need a ratchet where the head is on 45 degrees to the handle. He got all the bolts and screws from the bottom as well. No way to get it from the top.

Pass side is relatively easy, and can be DIY. For sure.

By the way forgot to mention. The driver side mount leaked out oil as soon as he flipped it out of the cup. The pass side mount was still sealed. I think it might have been changed, or there is really not much abuse on that side. It looked pretty much like the one I just purchased, no real noticeable wear. That's why he suggested I hold onto it. Either way, just watch your face when you flip the mounts, if the mount is shot, oil will come out. I though there was no oil, but apparently I was wrong.

Again, I can't even describe how happy I am now. No vibrations at all. Drive, reverse, at a light, nothing. The boat rocking during shifts is also gone.

Yea give your tactic a try. Might work better, especially if you are going to try and DIY this. Let us know how it goes. For what they charged me though, I would not even bother attempting this myself.