Guys we have success !!
At 30k the belts were changed by dealer.
Water pump looked good have left that alone for now because I need the car running but ive figured out how to get in there for a future date and have also ordered the hose from the heater core to the expansion tank
Currently new thermostat installed
New upper hose
New lower hose
Bleeded the system
The expansion tank was a little tough but it has to line up to the ridges but once in it just clicks into place
The oil cooler I was talking about earlier, I found the clip which was loose and reinstalled that so its good back in there. I checked the entire backing plate but it seemed fine no cracks. The white must have been residue leaking from the tank on the bottom by the thermostat.
Simple green everything and here is a successful picture of first job completed on my X5.
Thank you all for your help until the next move.