Yeah it looks more and more like its time to throw in the towel because I don't want to invest more money into a car that may or may not run properly.
I don't mind doing the work myself but a mechanic is only going to charge me a ton of money for research and may end up with the same results.
Not in a million years am I thinking I know even a tenth of what you guys know but it seems to me that:
- bottom end piston rings would result in burning oil: not happening
- bad valve seals could mean low compression without burning oil BUT the low compression would continue even when I accelerate. Going up hills or anything that required more torque would cause for me to bog out due to low compression: not happening
- if it has low compression, wouldn't it run worse under load? The engine requires more horsepower unload right? So wouldn't the performance get worse while driving because of the compression issue?
Lord knows I could of made many mistakes in my testing, so even if we go with the notion that my data is flawed do to user error, I think certain things should be ruled out due to the facts of how the car is behaving now and only focus on the things that could result with my profile:
Facts:
- The car isn't burning oil
- the oil and antifreeze is NOT mixing
- the misfire on all driver side cylinders go away when rpm's are over 800
- the only codes being returned are for misfire
- the misfire codes go away while driving
To me it seems the direction should be: What would allow for the cylinders to get compression at 800 rpm's but not at 600 rpm's while idle?
Sorry guys, just a little frustrated after tearing down this engine and still clueless.
