Xoutpost.com - View Single Post - Wheel bearing on its way out, need help making part list

Ricky Bobby · #2 01-28-2013, 12:45 PM

Check out the Front wheel bearing R&R thread for a great resource, and the CV boot DIY in 30 mins thread, since most steps are the same (you need to remove axle and I am looking for the easiest way to do it while disconnecting as many parts as possible)

Slick, I am doing my front bearings soon but you may beat me to the punch.

You need a harbor freight bearing "FWD Bearing Adapters" press kit to press the old bearing in and out (99 bucks but use a 20% off coupon to get it for 80), and a slide hammer kit to press the axle out of the hub then hammer the hub/drive flange out of the knuckle. (I've heard the HF version of this breaks easily)

you can rent a slide hammer kit from Autozone/Advance auto parts for free however, which is what i'm doing.

Then its up to you whether you want to reuse the hub or not. When you hammer the hub out the inner race will be still attached to the hub so you can cut it out with a dremel and use a hammer/chisel to get it off. The outer race will still be attached in the knuckle so thats where the bearing press kit comes in.

In my case, I am replacing my hubs since they are 9 years old, I dont know how abused they are, and I want as many fresh parts as possible, they are 87 bucks on ECS (probably less with your Bloomfield contacts)

I am replacing 5,6,7,8,9.....Note that OE bearings are made by F.A.G. brand, they are listed around 90 bucks from dealer, but sold in a F.A.G. box for 43 bucks if you source them from Pelican parts.

Also, in my case I am replacing my outer CV boots since I am disconnecting the axle anyway, $12.50 a boot kit for GKN Loebro (which is OE brand) on Pelican parts.

You shouldn't have to disconnect any of the control arms, just the two bolts/nuts on the strut and that gives the knuckle enough room to swivel. Use new nuts for the strut on replacement as they are torque to yield I believe.

Other than that, disconnect your caliper, and take off your rotor, and when you get your axle nut and everything reconnected, put some antiseize on it to avoid rusting problems in the future.

I'm doing my bearings since I have had a rumble since I got the car, 67k miles now, but former owner lived in Yonkers. The front end took a beating and I'm assuming yours has as well living in Brooklyn. Good luck and hit me up if you need anything, I've been researching this repair for the past 2 months getting ready so I have all my ducks in a row.

I was going to buy the bearing press kit from HF, along with circlip pliers and sell both to fellow member "davintosh" who is in SD but doing his bearings as well after I complete mine, we are splitting the cost but he is going to keep the tools afterwards. Perhaps he can let you borrow them after he's through?

He also has an ingenious tool to help draw the axle back in to the hub since that is the part people struggle with, basically its a grinded down axle nut welded on a socket which you can use to help catch the threads of the axle and draw it back in. I am putting it on the virgin run on my bearing job and will do a DIY with photos on the process when I am done (since I'm sure it will help other members)

Indy wanted 1200 bucks for parts and labor, I priced out parts and tools and came to under 500.

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