View Single Post
  #2  
Old 11-19-2013, 04:46 PM
racingbmwm3 racingbmwm3 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Port Townsend, WA
Posts: 540
racingbmwm3 is on a distinguished road
Sounds like the microswitch in the latch is going dead, or a loose wire.
this is the part number from realoem for the latch.
51248408492

First test, easy one, open the door, then use a small screwdriver or similar to manually close the latch, all the way, 2 clicks. Do the lights go off now? If so, your latch isn't getting closed all the way. Check alignment of striker plate and the bump stops.
If the light is still on, check the electrical. You'll need to remove some trim to access the electrical portion of the latch.
I don't have diagrams in front of me, but I'm thinking there should be 4 wires going to the latch, 2 larger ones for operating the latch, and 2 smaller ones for the latch position sensor. Or maybe it's two plugs, and the plug with the 2 smaller wires is the one to be tested. First, press the button to open the door which will release the latch back to its open position. Next, unplug the connector that has the 2 smaller wires. Now measure the wires for voltage, I'm guessing 5V (maybe 12V) should be read across the pins while the car is awake. Next, leaving the latch unplugged, measure the resistance (or continuity, either works) of the latch itself (NOT THE CAR WIRING) across the two pins that correspond to the two smaller wires. I'm guessing this should read either infinity or open circuit since the latch should be open. Next, manually close the latch (again, all the way, 2 clicks) and measure for resistance/continuity again. If the switch is working, then the reading should be around 0.5 Ohms, or closed continuity. Double check that you are reading the correct 2 pins. If the latch reads the same when its open or closed, then you need a new latch. If the switch tests fine, and the wiring has voltage, your General Module must be having issues....
If this is the only electrical issue you are currently having, I'm 90% sure its the latch. Its best to always test that stuff before replacing as most shops will not accept returns for electrical parts.
__________________
*********************
Olympic Peninsula, WA, USA
-----------------------------------------
2005 Mini Cooper 100k, British Racing Green/Silver-Black
04/2002 4.6is 140k, Silver/Black-Alcantara *FOR SALE*
1989 325iX 270k, Diamond Black/Black
1984 318i 370k *SOLD* (First Bimmer)
Honorable Mentions: '71 2002, '87 325, '90 325ic, '92 525it, '93 325i, '94 530i
Reply With Quote

Sponsored Links