Centric blanks are fine. Akebono ceramic pads are ok, but don't expect the stopping feel of the stock brake pads. Side benefit is barely visible brake dust, but the initial 'bite' is less pronounced than stock pads.

There's no need to "twist" or otherwise manipulate the rear caliper pistons. They squeeze right back in like the fronts. Lisle sells a tool for $10 or so to do this and it is usually at the parts store. My preference is to open the bleeder screw when you push the piston back so any crud doesn't go backwards through the system (or worse yet, someone has topped off the reservoir and now you have brake fluid all over your engine compartment…). Remember to get some new fluid to flush the system with (suck out the old from the reservoir and replace with new) and bleed the system appropriately.

It's an easy job, with the possible exception of a stuck rotor or rotor set screw. Then you get to swear and stuff, but there are answers to how to get those problems solved in xoutpost threads so not to worry!

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Kirk
Las Vegas
2016 X5 40e Mineral White/Black Dakota Leather, ZLL, ZCW, ZDA, ZDB, ZPP, multi contour seats, rear side window shades, HK stereo
2011 E90M3, 6-speed manual