Quote:
Originally Posted by admranger
Centric blanks are fine. Akebono ceramic pads are ok, but don't expect the stopping feel of the stock brake pads. Side benefit is barely visible brake dust, but the initial 'bite' is less pronounced than stock pads.
There's no need to "twist" or otherwise manipulate the rear caliper pistons. They squeeze right back in like the fronts. Lisle sells a tool for $10 or so to do this and it is usually at the parts store. My preference is to open the bleeder screw when you push the piston back so any crud doesn't go backwards through the system (or worse yet, someone has topped off the reservoir and now you have brake fluid all over your engine compartment…). Remember to get some new fluid to flush the system with (suck out the old from the reservoir and replace with new) and bleed the system appropriately.
It's an easy job, with the possible exception of a stuck rotor or rotor set screw. Then you get to swear and stuff, but there are answers to how to get those problems solved in xoutpost threads so not to worry!
|
Ever since I got my Ryobi impact driver stuck bolts and screws are a thing of the past.
__________________
2006 Infiniti G35
2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD
Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire
Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered
Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered
PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen
Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids
BMW 525IT Sold
Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold
Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold
Opel 1900 Sold
Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold
Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold
Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD
|