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LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#1
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I cannot figure it out. Where is the problem?
P0343 refers to a camshaft position sensor high B1 which means that the sensor does not send the low signal anymore. Now, the multiple misfire (P1341) I believe but I might be wrong, is coming out because the first code. I do not have a bad CPS. Here is what I did: I had a CPS which opened up and use the harness to make a brake out box. I connected a spare sensor through it to be able to measure the voltage pins. I switched the key in position 1 without starting the engine and I measured the voltage on the middle pin which is the signaling. If I go with the sensor close to a metal part of the car the output is zero (low - P0342) if I move the sensor away the output is 11V (high - P0343. This proves that the sensor is working. and the ECU outputs the right codes for Bank 1. Now if I do the same thing for the Bank 2 (driver side) then I don't get the same behavior. I get P01347 or 1348 which is a specific cylinder misfire when I have the sensor close to a metal part of the car. I was expecting the same think as in bank 1 (P0347 for bank 2). So, the above testing was done with a spare CPS which I could more around. Now, if I measure the signaling voltage when the engine is running with the sensors in place I get 6.4V with a variation of 0,1V or so which is normal. With an oscilloscop you can see the the righ signal. Based on the test above I can eliminate a bad CPS. Then, where is the rough idle coming from and P0343 and P1341? Where should I look? |
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#2
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nobody? any idea?
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#3
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That is a pretty thorough test and I would not have thought to do it.
I have the same issue and it is not the CPS because I replaced first with a Duralast, then with an OEM. Still getting the rough idle and multiple cylinder misfires. I will let you know what I find out, even though alot of time has passed since your post. |
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#4
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wow!
sounds like Your vanos is out of adjustment and the vanos is not adjusting the timing properly ? how does it run at different rpm, under a load?
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#5
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It runs ok for the most part, but then the error comes up.
Example........
I kept getting the Intake camshaft position sensor error. I replaced the intake sensor with one from Autozone. Did not fix the issue, so I read on another forum to use OEM only. I replaced that today, and still getting the error. Now the camshaft position sensor error is more common than the cylinder misfire errors. I can drive around all day, or weeks at a time and not get the cylider misfires (all of them) but the camshaft sensor error is more common (every 15 miles or so). The car has no indication of an error, then at a red light, it will shake and idle very rough, no light. Once I accelerate, the issue fixes itself, but I get the light that goes away. |
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#6
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Right, I don't have this problem anymore. Most likely the problem started with a bad CPS but after replacing it the problem didn't go away. I wish I had a solution for it but the problem went away when I removed the BT OBD ELM327 I was debugging with. I would assume that the OBD device 'locked' the ECU in a stupid state... no idea, just speculating.
I never had that problem since and the only thing different was the OBD not being connected to the car. |
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#7
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Was that the same vehicle you had the Vanos/chain guide problems with?
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#8
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Yes. Everything got changed. The engine runs smooth like new... I still have a starting problem (different thread) which I guess I will have to take it to the dealer. The indy I deal with couldn't figure out. The vanos and all the other tests pass... so I wouldn't relate the rough idle with the vanos in your case if you can pass the vanos test.
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#9
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Vanos test? I have the Peake diagnostic tool. What is the Vanos test?
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#10
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The advanced tools would to that. If you don't have a GT1 or Autologic go to an indy that has one and they can run that for you. It's an option in there that moves the vanos angles and checks for specific output.
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