Weight distributing hitch and the E53

[Rbot7]

Hello everyone,

First time post here, and sorry if this question has been answered before.

I have a 2006 3.0 E53 with the factory installed hitch that I use to pull my 3500lb travel trailer. The combo works great, however there have been some (scary) sway issues at highway speeds that I would like to adjust for.

Although, the trailers tongue-weight doesn't necessitate it, a local trailer dealer has recommended a weigh distribution hitch to reduce sway.

In reading through various threads it is very clear that BMW discourages weight distributing hitches for the E70 (the E70 "Trailer Hitch Guidelines and Cautions" clearly states- "Do not use weight distribution equipment.")

However is this true for the E53? I have yet to find any specific references to BMW warning against weight distributing hitches for the E53.

On page 2-6 of the "BMW E53 Hitch install" PDF
posted by X5Boise here-

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...ation-pdf.html

it even states that the maximum trailer and tongue weights authorized for the tow bar are 6000lbs for both "weight distributing" and weight carrying" trailers...

Add to that the large amount of anecdotal evidence in this forum of positive experiences of using weight distribution hitches and the E53....

Anyone have evidence that BMW discourages weight distribution hitches for the e53 as they do for the e70?

Also any good suggestions for best reducing sway?

Thank very much! Excited to join the community.

[bcredliner]

The weight on the tongue has a lot to do with how something tows. If most of the weight is toward the rear resulting in too low tongue weight it will have a greater tendency to sway. Increasing tongue weight will reduce the tendency to sway.

Trailer brakes are effective to stop a swaying trailer. A slight use of the trailer brakes in situations where trailer has a tendency to sway will usually stop it before it starts. Unless the sway is severe the trailer brakes will also stop the sway.

The tendency to sway can also be the tow vehicle. Bigger sway bars will help as well as tires known to have stiff sidewalls.

If you are not able to increase the tongue weight then a weight distribution hitch may be necessary.

Without any changes a swaying trailer will often straighten out if you accelerate and a lighter touch on the brakes will help prevent it from happening when slowing down or stopping.

[JCL]

I'd agree that you should start out by determining your tongue weight. Use a scale, and make sure you have 12% to 15% on the tongue. The other thing to check is that your trailer is level, as riding too far off level will also contribute to sway.

The story on weight distributing hitches is that they are a North American item. Trailer standards developed differently in Europe (lower tongue weights, surge brakes, no WDH) but North American trailers are designed to have a significant tongue weight, and often benefit from a WDH.

Because WDHs are not common in Europe, European vehicle designers recommend against them; they simply don't know anything about them, and how well they work in practice depends on the setup, which the vehicle manufacturer doesn't control (it is up to the owner).

I wouldn't hesitate to use a WDH on an E53, if you have the OE hitch. It is very solid. The tongue weight limits address the use of a WDH. There are two separate points here though. A WDH improves vehicle and trailer handling by essentially moving the virtual CoG of the tongue weight forward, so that it isn't hanging off the rear bumper but instead is between the front and rear axles. The vehicle will handle better, and that can certainly help with sway. But there are also sway control devices that are sometimes part of a WDH, and sometimes separate. These devices essentially damp out the sway, usually with friction (unless you go to a pivot point projection hitch, eg Hensley or ProPride, which are probably more than you want to spend)

The E70 hitch doesn't appear to be as strong as the E53 hitch was. This may be the basis for any warnings. It is certainly strong vertically and horizontally (tongue weight and braking) but it may not be as strong in bending, the levering effect of transferring tongue weight to the front axle of the tow vehicle.

Some of the best research you could do on this would be to go to the CanAm RV web site. The owner publishes towing articles, consults with travel trailer manufacturers, is an acknowledged expert on trailer and tow vehicle setup, and has links to most of those articles on their website.

Can-Am RV Centre | #1 Airstream Dealer in Customer Satisfaction Worldwide | Your Full-Service RV Dealer

Jeff

[Rbot7]

Thank you Bcredliner,

Excellent advise. I will definitely experiment with added tongue weight (I think I'm around 10% now).

Wouldn't dream of running without trailer brakes and my prodigy controller, definitely feel they are hugely important to maintaining control at highway speeds.

[JCL]

Additional point:

You don't say at what speed the sway happens. Some get very used to high solo travel speeds, and those speeds are not always appropriate when towing.

[Rbot7]

JCL-

Good question. I usually pull at speeds between 65-70mph. I'd say 90% of my sway issues occur while being passed by 18 wheelers.

[Rbot7]

JCL-

Also, thank your WD hitch insights. I hadn't heard of CanAm and will definitely research there.

[bcredliner]

I wondered if that was the case. The two vehicle and or the trailer is being buffeted by the unstable air (dirty air) the truck produces. Your combination of hitch, tongue weight, angle of trailer to X5 etc. may be fine.

A big blast of air buffeting air (dirty air) is coming around the front of the truck. As the air travels down the side of the truck it can vary more or less than at the front of the truck. The air is dirty well behind the back of the truck. It is similar to high gusting winds coming at the side of a vehicle. Idea is to be in the dirty air as short a time as possible.

With trailer brakes you can apply the trailer brakes slightly and offset the drag with increased go pedal so that you maintain your speed. Without trailer brakes slow down a fair distance before the truck gets to the back of the trailer so that you can be accelerating every so slightly as the truck passes. When passing a truck do so accelerating rather than maintaining your overtaking speed.

In both situations you are trying to avoid a situation where the trailer is pushing the tow vehicle. The Opposite is true in long downhill stretches or stopping quickly. You want to have the trailer trying to slow down the tow vehicle.

Obviously, slower speeds reduce the chance of swaying and lower the chance the swaying will become violent.

Unfortunately, there is always some tension when towing anything because of how foreign the necessary driving technique is and how strong the desire to relax and fall back to the way one normally drives. I would describe towing technique as driving like you just bought it rather than stole it. Do everything carefully and in moderation.