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  #11  
Old 03-08-2015, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StephenVA View Post
2 QTS
When the computer asks for oil, there's 2qts left in the crankcase system, or it's 2qts below full capacity?
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  #12  
Old 03-08-2015, 08:08 PM
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I personally don't subscribe to recycled and/or biodegradable oils being "better" or even "as good" as virgin synthetics.

Some warnings here that G-Oil is not recommended for alusil cylinder engines.

G Oil Racing 5W30 VOA | Virgin Oil Analysis - PCMO/HDEO | Bob Is The Oil Guy
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  #13  
Old 03-08-2015, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrispitude View Post
When the computer asks for oil, there's 2qts left in the crankcase system, or it's 2qts below full capacity?
Should be 2 QTs low.

I will let others chime in as I never have tested it to confirm.
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  #14  
Old 03-08-2015, 08:13 PM
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Is it possible the sludge has accumulated on the oil-level sensor? Why does the CCV suck so much on this vehicle?

My wife's commute is 35 minutes each way - half highway, half city.

Advice?[/QUOTE]


Hoooly shit, that's a lot of mayo! You need to clean that shit off ASAP. 35 minutes each way is enough to burn off the condensation. The problem is the condensation is happening when the engine is cooling off. Since the 35 minute trip is enough to warm up the engine, it's going to create more condensation when it's cooling. I'm going to give you the same advice I gave someone else on other thread.

" I know not everyone will agree with me but I've been able to keep my CCV and hoses in the winter time pretty clean by using a bit of WD40 and a rag to clean off visible condensation aka "Mayo". Spary a bit inside the oil filler, a bit inside the CCV hose that connects to the CCV along with the VCG port and the oil dipstick. You can't really wipe anything in the oil dipstick but WD40 will help break down the mayo if there is any inside the oil dipstick.

This alone won't help to prevent condensation. As upallnight has mentioned, I remove the oil cap and let the heat vent after use whether it was a hour trip or a 5 minute run. I leave the cap off for a few hours and cap it back up after everything looks dry and cool.

Most important is to give it a good drive at least once a week to burn out the rest of the condensation. After I've taking my X on a long run, I still remove the oil cap and let it vent. With all of the above, I've been able to keep condensation at a minimal. Hope this helps. I leave my hood open while it's venting BTW."

Now as for cleaning it now, first clean the oil cap. Spary the shit out of it with WD 40 and wipe with a rag. Repeat as needed. Second, clean inside the crankcase the best you can with the rag and WD40. Third, remove the CCV hose (The one shown in the picture) and spary both sides. The one coming from the VC and the one coming from the CCV. Repeat as needed. Last spray the oil dip stick. I know you can't wipe anything inside but the WD40 will help break down the mayo that inside there. After you've done all of that take it for a hour drive to the Express Way and run her hard.
Repeat as needed.

Since there is a lot of mayo in the CCV and crankcase, it will take several time for it to clean out. Doing this with the above mention should help you out. Good luck.
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  #15  
Old 03-08-2015, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motordavid View Post
I doubt that the OP's mayo situ is a function of the 5W-30 full synthetic oil that he has been using...
We need another 'which oil is best'/arm wrestle like a hole in the head, and the oil debate will be of little comfort to the OP's problem, imo.
so what is causing that sludge ?is it not changing something else or it there another fluid go through the engine...........if it isn't the oil what is then?I don't have that problem and I had E53[4.6is,4.8is] for 9 years
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  #16  
Old 03-08-2015, 08:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by electricalserv x5 View Post
so what is causing that sludge ?is it not changing something else or it there another fluid go through the engine...........if it isn't the oil what is then?I don't have that problem and I had E53[4.6is,4.8is] for 9 years

The problem is the very cold weather in some areas and bad CCV design. The mayo build up is condensation forming inside the CCV and crankcase. The engine is hot and since it's cold outside it will start to 'sweat' aka condensate and mix with the oil once the engine starts to cool down. Since the crankcase has nowhere to vent, it will just condensate every time you turn off the engine in very cold weather.
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  #17  
Old 03-08-2015, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by electricalserv x5 View Post
so what is causing that sludge ?is it not changing something else or it there another fluid go through the engine...........if it isn't the oil what is then?I don't have that problem and I had E53[4.6is,4.8is] for 9 years
My point is that it is not the OP's choice of a full syn name brand 5W-30 oil that has had any deleterious effect on his CCV system, and that the oil the OP used hasn't caused the mayo/clogged CCV system.

Our X is a 2001 3.0, owned since new, and it exhibits no indication of any CCV problem, other than I know that the oe hose system is 13.5 yrs old.

We all know, or have a good understanding of 'what causes the sludge', but the choice of a good syn oil is not the cause, or the problem.

It is unfortunate and maybe a symptom of the crappy design by BMW, that makes these CCV systems, even on the newer MYs and also when replaced/redone, that the problem happens, or in the case of the OP, reoccurs.

Only on that oil choice not being the 'cause', or that XYZ Oil will prevent the problem, was I making a point.
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Last edited by motordavid; 03-08-2015 at 09:44 PM.
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  #18  
Old 03-08-2015, 11:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWX5CHI View Post
The problem is the very cold weather in some areas and bad CCV design. The mayo build up is condensation forming inside the CCV and crankcase. The engine is hot and since it's cold outside it will start to 'sweat' aka condensate and mix with the oil once the engine starts to cool down. Since the crankcase has nowhere to vent, it will just condensate every time you turn off the engine in very cold weather.
Here is some blurring of cause and effect here. I had the condensate paste on one BMW vehicle, a new 318i. It rarely freezes where I live. That engine was very fuel efficient, which means that there was less waste heat under the hood. I managed it with a hot oil change, and a change in driving routine to give it a good run every now and then. That was in 1994.

The very cold weather comes into play when the condensate freezes and causes consequential problems due to the CCV valve freezing. Cold weather can slow the engine warming cycle. But the CCV design problem on the X5 is related to the valve not getting hot enough, not causing the condensate paste in the first place.

A faulty thermostat can certainly worsen the situation.
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