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  #11  
Old 05-11-2015, 05:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ants_oz View Post
The polish I used was a cheapo Mothers Scratch Remover that I had left over from some job or other. And the coating was simply carnauba wax in a tin.

Its entirely possible that I am wrong about the anodizing, however since I have never seen high gloss anodized finishes like on my trims, and where I patched the small stone chip, I've never seen anodized finish do that either - it definitely looked just like a coating. I've also never seen anodized surfaces react well to polishing and waxing like the trims on mine, so I have every reason to believe they are not anodized. I also know that my trims are genuine, because I replaced one of them with a newbie from the dealer due to a large imperfection.
Interesting! I'm not real familiar with anything anodized, so all I had to go on is what I read.

I'm gonna try this TrimCoat since I have it ordered, but might give Mothers a go-around till it gets here, since I have some on the shelf. Hopefully somehow I'll get the same results you did!
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  #12  
Old 05-11-2015, 05:48 AM
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No idea on the masking tape, I wondered too.

Thanks for all the suggestions, guys, I'll keep all these products in mind, and might use them, depending on my results with the stuff I ordered.

Seems to me you wouldn't have to seal it over top of the TrimCoat, looks like it seals when it hardens. Could be wrong tho...
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Black Nappa leather
rear air bags
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2015 GMC Sierra 280K miles...
2011 GMC Sierra, 500K miles...

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  #13  
Old 05-11-2015, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by jsoto View Post
It simply needs a polish and needs to be ~sealed~ to keep the trim from reacting with the elements. Any polish in your stash, polish to your *gloss-refinement* level and then use any quality sealer, etc once done.
+1

I just use the same stuff as I use on my paint bc the trim *is* just like the paint- clear coat paint on metal. I start with 3M clear coat safe polish with a roatry Flex polisher and an orange pad after taping off the rubber edges. I seal it with the same stuff (Zaino) as I do the paint.

My mother-in-law's '01 3.0 is the same trim and it's as shiny as when new.
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  #14  
Old 05-11-2015, 09:09 AM
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Actually, the trim being discussed is not clear coated, hence the oxidization we see happening.

A good polish, and then ~seal~ being the keyword, solves it all.

+ side for the OP, is buying good auto polish you can use on your paint, and not the product linked IMOP
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  #15  
Old 05-11-2015, 10:32 AM
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+3...I hand wash & dry the trim gently when the Ol'Beast gets washed a few times per year, and Zaino it once, maybe twice a year.
Our '01 trim still looks damn good.
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  #16  
Old 05-11-2015, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsoto View Post
It simply needs a polish and needs to be ~sealed~ to keep the trim from reacting with the elements. Any polish in your stash, polish to your *gloss-refinement* level and then use any quality sealer, etc once done.

If it was me, I would use a Sonax 4/6 and then Ultima PGP.
If you were to spend a lil more, I'd skip the Ultima and use Cquartz UK.
Matt on my shadowline trim it was heavily defected. I needed to use an orange pad with Menz FG400, then follow up with a finer polish (Sonax 4/6 and a green pad) and its basically as good as its going to get.

Compound/polish it like you would the paint, it should come out great.

This is a curious product though, if you try it I wonder if it lasts. And if it comes out better than polishing. I have some etched water spots in my trim that won't come out.


I don't agree with the gentleman's website though, my shadowline trim polished up nicely, as opposed to my anodized roof rails which have faded to a slightly gray color (need to get them PC'ed)
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Last edited by Ricky Bobby; 05-11-2015 at 10:43 AM.
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  #17  
Old 05-11-2015, 12:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsoto View Post
Actually, the trim being discussed is not clear coated, hence the oxidization we see happening.
Well, how ab that... I guess I thought it was since none of mine has oxidized. But, I do want to clarify: Clear coat *can* oxidize- or at least fail- correct?
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  #18  
Old 05-11-2015, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PropellerHead View Post
Well, how ab that... I guess I thought it was since none of mine has oxidized. But, I do want to clarify: Clear coat *can* oxidize- or at least fail- correct?

This is clearcoat failure, polishing will not help:




This is clearcoat oxidation, which polishing will improve, remove and leave a high gloss:



The "oxidation" on clearcoat is basically a bit of a dulling effect from swirls, scratches etc. Failure is when the damage has almost created a "crater" and has eaten all the way through to the base coat.
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  #19  
Old 05-11-2015, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby View Post
I don't agree with the gentleman's website though, my shadowline trim polished up nicely, as opposed to my anodized roof rails which have faded to a slightly gray color (need to get them PC'ed)
I used a Griot's clay bar and Griot's Paint Sealant on my roof rails yesterday and they turned back to black from the gray you describe.
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  #20  
Old 05-11-2015, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by edogg View Post
I used a Griot's clay bar and Griot's Paint Sealant on my roof rails yesterday and they turned back to black from the gray you describe.
I have plenty of paint sealant in my arsenal (I'm using one from Garry Dean currently). I'll clay my rails and see if applying sealant helps.
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