Cv axle splines destroyed at the tip

[David.X5]

To answer some of these questions:

Yes, longer spline front driveshaft makes installation harder. You should loosen or remove the transfer case.

The longer splines seem to work. The problem is the internal splines on the transfer case. They can be toast. For some TC, a new output piece is available. BMW dealers tell you to replace the entire TC for $$$.

[David.X5]

I'm sorry if I am taking this the wrong way, but you seem to want more certainty than you should expect from free advice on the internet. Especially considering that none of us have laid eyes on your car. Each car will be different. Each owner has different expectations about reliability and performance. Used cars may have been abused.

BMW position seems to be to replace the front drive shaft and transfer case. This gets you new male and female splines and another 60k-150k miles depending on how things go.

Cobra Transmission is one source for the longer splined front driveshafts. They will not warranty their part unless you also buy a new output piece for the TC so it has pristine female splines.

Some people drive their vehicles until the front driveshaft completely strips out. I think that those cars are the ones where the internal splines are too damaged and a new driveshaft (regular or long spline) without touching the TC will not last very long.

Some people catch the problem when the splines start making some noise. I think that those cars are the ones that can survive with just a longer splined front driveshaft.

By the time the splines are worn, the chain in the TC is also getting stretched, so it makes sense to drop the TC, replace the chain, install the longer spline front driveshaft (with or without a new front output piece) and then reinstall. I did this (chain + long splined driveshaft - I caught mine before it let go), and also replaced the 3 TC seals and the rear output seal on my transmission while it was apart.

[Joshdub]

Installing the longer shaft along with the new female splines will prevent it from stripping in the future. BMW made a pretty shitty compromise in my opinion, with ease of driveshaft replacement vs long time reliability. This problem dates back to the E30.

[civdiv99]

Well. I'm clearly lost.

I started reading this as if we were discussing a front half-shaft, and my first thought was that while I can see how someone replacing it could fail to seat the shaft in the diff properly, I'd expect the rather small volume of gear oil in that diff should have been dribbling out since the seal would not be running on the designated surface.

If that's the front driveshaft, I'd not expect the female part of this system to be pristine any more. Only you can tell if it's a little messed up, or full tilt fubar.

If that's your front driveshaft, AND you have shake, rattle, and roll symptoms from one of the half shafts, you probably need to delve in and decide hands on.

There. I'm have added exactly zero to this whole discussion, but at least it feels like I accomplished something....,.ll

[o. l. t.]

Guys thank you for your responses. The truck has been great for many years but has 200k on it and I've done about all the common fixes that go wrong. Thousands of dollars and still counting. It's time for so much more to go wrong on the normal schedule. I've lost my love for it and its lifespan for the original parts are nearing the end. It's had all the common seals on the top end replaced, alt, water pump, etc.... Everything we always replace on these that fail. I'm NOT replacing the TC or even repairing it at this point. I am looking to trade it in and I'd like to get a longer driveshaft to eliminate my slipping issue as I'm certain the cv axles and front different are good now and the issue is busted splines at the TC. If I can put a longer shaft in there and get some time out of it I may be in a better frame of mind in a few months to do a big job and sink more money into it. Right now I just want it running so I can trade it in on a new X. I'm seeing the ship sinking at 200k miles.

[o. l. t.]

It happened the time before last I drove it and I only tried once more and it did it only with the wheels turned, seemingly to the right. I don't know if it would do it to the left. I figure it is binding the front and causing more stress on the ds

[o. l. t.]

The whole CV axle spline seems to be in order except for that tip which I am guessing was a fragment somewhere loose in side that got into the teeth. I'll be dropping the drive shaft in the next day or two and we can go from there.

[stackz]

Originally Posted by trader4

IDK how in
the world a CV axle could pull that far out of the differential. But then
there was someone here last year that reported changing his axle,
then driving a block and having the car cease to move because it
had slipped out.

that was me lol.

the axle did not have to pull out very far for it to disengage. the axle was actually still in the front diff, but was popped out about an inch or so.

I just didnt properly seat the axle when I installed it. once I tore it apart so I could get leverage on it, I popped it in properly and felt the snap ring lock into place.

the issue with OP's axle I would assume is similar. I mean I dont even see the snap ring on it. that would obviously cause it to travel along the splines and pop in/out in turning.

[o. l. t.]

Do I put the clip on and just push the axle straight In?

Also what's the black barrel in the chamber in post 3, is that to stay there.

[o. l. t.]

Well it took a paycheck, like it always does, but I got all new parts and it's back to perfect so I'll keep it a little longer. New cv, hub, bearing, and ignition coil.