Shudder when braking at speeds over 40-50mph

[PC88]

BMW E53 X5 2002 4.4 Sport
Hi All,

I'm getting a shudder or shaking sensation through the steering wheel when braking at speeds over 40-50 mph.

I have done some reading online and people are pointing at the control arm which I intended to replace anyway but there appears to be two different control arms and I'm unsure which is the one that it is likely to be that needs replacing 1st.

Also one control arm people seem to suggest breaks another ball joint and that needs replacing as well.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
Paul

[thrillcat]

How many miles do you have? The bushings all tend to age at about the same rate, so it's not a bad idea to replace several items in there while you're doing it.

I would do at least these (and I'm going to in the next couple weeks along with rear suspension bags), but here's the full front kit so you can see what else is in there.

FYI, this site has pretty decent package prices, and a solid reputation on here. Meyle, Lemforder, or Genuine BMW are recommended here....don't go cheap on these parts. Or any parts, really.

[g300d]

Usually it is the forward control arm bushing, the one nearest to the front of the car.

It's easy to see from the wheel well. Any cracks and significant deflection can cause shaking on braking.

[PC88]

Thank you!

I have ordered the control arm bit now.

It will be a project for me and yeah i agree all the bushing parts will be at the worn stage.

Mine is 125,000 miles on the clock and got it for a bargain price so expecting to spend some ££ on it

I will post pics eventually just haven't got around to it.

Thanks again for your replies.

[bcredliner]

If all of the suspension has covered the same number of miles you should consider a complete rebuild. As mentioned, the other parts that come in a rebuild kit will also be near the end of their life cycle. The expense is greater but you won't have to tear down the suspension multiple times. If you're not going to DIY, you will spend s a lot more in labor $$$. If you are, lots more time. At a minimum I suggest the suspension be thoroughly inspected so you have the parts on hand when you do the teardown.

[Rockit]

I just had the same problem....there is an upper and lower on each side so 4 total. You should replace them all. I used German aftermarket through ECS Tuning.

When your done and you still have a slight problem replace the brake rotors. At that mileage if none of them mentioned above has been changed it's time.

I also did the lower ball joints and the truck steering and handles great now.

[bcredliner]

Shuddering when not braking is very unlikely rotor related. Unless there is a quite noticeable ridge around the outside of the rotors they should be fine. If you are unsure, they can be measured to see if they are below the minimum spec. It's not unusual that new rotors are part of brake pad replacements. I change them every time. They are not that expensive and I prefer that new pads are seated with new rotors.

[edogg]

Originally Posted by bcredliner

Shuddering when not braking is very unlikely rotor related. Unless there is a quite noticeable ridge around the outside of the rotors they should be fine. If you are unsure, they can be measured to see if they are below the minimum spec. It's not unusual that new rotors are part of brake pad replacements. I change them every time. They are not that expensive and I prefer that new pads are seated with new rotors.

New rotors is what ultimately solved my shudder. And, even though they were worn and needed replacement, new control arm bushings made the shudder worse - probably because the new bushings removed the slop which was absorbing the brake shudder.

The big difference is if you can feel the shudder in the pedal too. When you are going slow and lightly pressing on the brakes, you can feel the slowing of the car come and go. This is because the rotor warping makes the brakes engage and disengage.

[bcredliner]

Originally Posted by edogg

New rotors is what ultimately solved my shudder. And, even though they were worn and needed replacement, new control arm bushings made the shudder worse - probably because the new bushings removed the slop which was absorbing the brake shudder.

The big difference is if you can feel the shudder in the pedal too. When you are going slow and lightly pressing on the brakes, you can feel the slowing of the car come and go. This is because the rotor warping makes the brakes engage and disengage.

You are correct if the control arm bushings are in good shape. If they are failing you will feel the shudder when braking even when the rotors are in perfect shape.

Suspension symptoms are often the same for different core causes. The symptom could also be other than the suspension such as a bent rim etc.

As has been mentioned, before drawing any conclusions, purchasing any parts, the best course action is to have the entire suspension checked by a well recommended BMW focused shop if one does not have the experience to do so themselves.

Personally, if I find the core problem is in the suspension and the suspension has 75,000 or more miles on it, I rebuild the suspension rather than replace worn parts piece by piece. In my experience the rest of the parts in a suspension rebuild kit are likely to fall like dominos not long after. And when you rebuild the suspension piece by piece you risk damaging the new part(s).

[StephenVA]

+ 100

Go through it completely and you're done for another 60K
Suspension bushing & arms, ball joints (front), and brakes as you in there already. Tie rod ends last 50-100K depending if you are a crank the wheel while standing still person vs moving slowing while turning in when parking. Big tires = big stress on suspension & steering parts. When in doubt, replace them all....

Everyone has different wear rates. Some more accelerated than others. All highway? Long life. City driving and rough surfaces? A lot shorter.

The stop and go of town & country driving for me had the front bushing last 40K. So in my case i get to do the front control arm bushings twice in 80K. At my mileage current rate that will be like 7 years...