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  #71  
Old 12-22-2015, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
All this discussion about removing the battery cable while the engine is running really cracks me up and is really so stupid.

The only reason this was ever done back in the 60's & 70's is people did not own a multimeter and it was a backs woods way to test for charging.

Why this is even discussed or considered in 2015 when you can buy a multimeter for the price a a few cups of Starbucks and possibly risk damaging or even glitching a module is not even worth the discussion.

Especially when many of the BMW models have a built in Voltmeter and you do not even have to buy anything, open the hood or get out of the drivers seat.

A Voltmeter is really all that is required to get a very good idea as to what is going on with any battery or charging system. Yes, having more than a Voltmeter or tools that can verify AC ripple, measure Amerage and apply a load is all fine and good, but if the charging system or battery can meet some basic Voltage measurements, it is pretty much the case that things are working correctly and in good shape.

So anyone that wants to disconnect their battery cable, go ahead, I believe the more knowledgeable crowd would recommend that this not be done.


No one has posted they think it a good idea to remove the battery cables and run the engine on the alternator. No one has said the voltmeter is not the best way to check the electrical system. FYI, I liked the phrasing of your initial posts much better than your most recent ones.
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  #72  
Old 12-22-2015, 03:50 PM
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Update

Battery out of car tested at terminals was getting a read of 10-11 volts.

Throwing on trickle charger.
Date on battery says Aug 09 ! Haha

Now Im hoping my alternator didn't get killed trying to drive half way home yesterday.

If battery charges enough to start car I will do a running test.
Can i test at the front jump location while running ? Or does it have to be terminals

Or if someone would explain the obc. The online directions are misleading bcz I only have one knob no right knob...
And when I get to the test number for battery volt it goes back to main temp and info
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  #73  
Old 12-22-2015, 04:22 PM
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If its that old I'd just get a new battery
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  #74  
Old 12-22-2015, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby View Post
If its that old I'd just get a new battery



Did you go agm battery? And would I be fine getting an autozone or napa auto battery?
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  #75  
Old 12-22-2015, 04:35 PM
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Anything is better than the old and mostly dead one you have now. I got the Bosch AGM from Pep Boys since I had a coupon code and a mail-in rebate, you'd be fine with Autozone or Napa, just get the most cold cranking amps you can get.
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  #76  
Old 12-22-2015, 04:45 PM
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[QUOTE=Ricky Bobby;1062680]Anything is better than the old and mostly dead one you have now. I got the Bosch AGM


Current one I just took out was bosch. I'dk where I could get one locally. There is no pep boys around me.
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  #77  
Old 12-22-2015, 05:28 PM
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I don't have a pep boys near me so I bought an Orileys battery, had more CCAs than Napa or Autozone. Just get the most powerful one that is local and you'll be OK.
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  #78  
Old 12-22-2015, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joshdub View Post
I don't have a pep boys near me so I bought an Orileys battery, had more CCAs than Napa or Autozone. Just get the most powerful one that is local and you'll be OK.

Nice. I looked at orielys. Still looking around.
Thanks for the help.
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  #79  
Old 12-22-2015, 06:44 PM
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[QUOTE=dabenthusiast;1062681]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby View Post
Anything is better than the old and mostly dead one you have now. I got the Bosch AGM


Current one I just took out was bosch. I'dk where I could get one locally. There is no pep boys around me.
How about Pep Girls???
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  #80  
Old 12-22-2015, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dabenthusiast View Post
Battery out of car tested at terminals was getting a read of 10-11 volts.

Throwing on trickle charger.
Date on battery says Aug 09 ! Haha

Now Im hoping my alternator didn't get killed trying to drive half way home yesterday.

If battery charges enough to start car I will do a running test.
Can i test at the front jump location while running ? Or does it have to be terminals

Or if someone would explain the obc. The online directions are misleading bcz I only have one knob no right knob...
And when I get to the test number for battery volt it goes back to main temp and info
try this it works for me everytime. just read carefully.

Instructions to access the hidden OBC functions:
1. Hold Trip Reset while turning ignition key to on position
2. OBC should show "Test"
3. Use Trip Reset to select function 19.0 that unlocks all the features
3. Wait for display to show "Off"
4. Depress Trip Reset for 1/4 second and release it
5. With no delay press Trip Reset several times to select one of the following function s
BMW E46 On-Board Computer (OBC) Hidden Codes
nr example description
1 Car Engine and cluster data
1.0 46nnn Chassis nr/VIN serial number (last 5 digits)
1.1 4nnn K-number
1.2 690236 Cluster Part #
1.3 045210 Coding (04)/diagnosis (52)/bus index (10)
1.4 1200 Week (12)/year of manufacture (2000)
1.5 09_160 Hardware (09) and software # (16.0) of cluster
1.6 Not used
1.7 04__44 CAN-version (04) KI-revision index (44)
2 (test) Cluster System Test - Activates the gauge drivers,
indicators and LEDs to confirm function
3 SI Data
3.0 1098 Used fuel in liters since last SI (Service Inspection)
3.1 0231 Periodic inspection days; elapsed days (since last SI)
4 Momentary Consumption
4.0 0145+ Instant fuel consumption - 0145=14.5 liters/100km
4.1 0018 Instant fuel consumption - 0018=1.8 l/Hour
5 Distance Gone Consumption
5.0 082 Average mileage; 082=8.2 liters/100km
5.1 0536 Calc. km to refuel (momentary distance to go)
6 Fuel Level sensor inputs in liters
6.0 109330+ Fuel level averaged; Left half sensor input=10.9 liters; Right sensor input=33.0 liters
6.1 0439+ Total tank level averaged; vlgs 6.0: 10.9+33.0=43.9 liters
6.2 0442+ Indicated value (44.2) and tank phase
7 Temperature and Speed
7.0 021+ Coolant/Engine temperature (2.1C)
7.1 130 Ambient/Outside temperature - chg met 5 pts. 125/130/135
7.2 + Engine speed / Current RPMs 1/min
7.3 + Vehicle speed / Current Speed in km/hour
8 Input value in HEX form
8.0 1d0+ System voltage ADC-Value Hex code
8.1 26C33C+ ADC Values HG left/HG right
8.2 0000 ADC Value brake degradation sensor (000=o.k.)
8.3 18C ADC Value outside temperature
9 Battery
9.0 140 Battery Voltage - 140 = UB 14.0v
9.1 242013+?
9.2 074_78+?
9.3 0011+?
10 Not used
11 Not used
12 Not used
13 GonG Gong Test
14 Not used
15 Status cluster I/O-ports (bit codes) 0=low; 1=high
1st-belt contact, seat belt fastened=0; 2) ignition lock contact, key inserted=0; 3) door contact, door open=0; 4) clock button pressed=0; 5) SI reset=0, for reset=0; 6) EGS transmission failure=0
Status Digital Outputs (bits) 0=inactive, 1=active
1) Gong output; 2) Brake warning lamp; 3) Low fuel warning lamp; 4) EGA lamp; 5) seat belt lamp; 6) manipulation dot
16 Not used
17 Not used
18 Not used
19 Lock Status; unlocks functions in range 3-18
19.0 L-On/L-Off Unlock: press button when "L-Off"
20 Not used
21 Software Reset; reset OBC settings
00 End of test
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