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#1
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CCV - any difference in part numbers?
I have a 2006 X5 3.0i - manufacture date = 10/05.
realoem shows the part # for the pressure regulating valve to be "11617533400" for my year. RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog Prior to 10/2003, the part number would be "11617501566". There's a huge price difference in complete kits between those 2 parts. $46 for the kit that fits the earlier X5. Heavy Duty PCV Crankcase Oil Separator Vent Valve 4 Breather Hose Kit 4 BMW X5 | eBay $120 for the part that fits my 2006. BMW Crankcase Oil Separator PCV Vent Valve Hoses Kit Set OEM Quality KM | eBay Anyone have experience in whether there's actually any difference in those 2 part numbers? They look to be identical to from photos. Thanks in advance. Last edited by pjs28; 01-21-2016 at 07:09 PM. |
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#2
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Use none OE parts at own risk
https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E53-X5...Oil_Separator/
There is a large difference on the lines and valve itself. The use of none BMW or quality brands for replacement usually leaves something wrong with the job that will bite you in the butt. Suggestion: Stay aware from E-buy China junk. Cheap to buy, expensive to repair afterwards.
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2005 X5 4.8IS The Blue ones are always FASTER.... Current Garage: 2005 X5 4.8is 2002 M5 TiSilver 2003 525iT 1998 528i Former Garage Stable Highlights 2004 325XiT Sport 1973 De Tomaso Pantera, L Model 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp Alpine White 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green 1971 Dart Sport, “Dart Light” package 1969 Road Runner 383 1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green |
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#3
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Get the OE cold weather CCV parts. $100 for the 4 hoses and Cold Weather valve for Genuine - You can also upgrade the dipstick tube at the same time but that is a $150 part - its not 100% required but its recommended
https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E53-X5...rator/ES19636/ - $24 https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E53-X5...rator/ES25712/ - $27 https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E53-X5...rator/ES25781/ - $52 These parts fit ALL 3.0L M54 E53's
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2018 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins 68RFE 19k miles -Bright White/Black - Big Horn Sport - Crew Cab Short Bed 2013 X5 35D (CEO's) - Born on 5/17/2013 - 82k miles - Alpine White/Cinnamon Brown/Premium Pkg, Sport Activity/Premium Pkg and Sound/20" Style 214/Running Boards |
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#4
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Thanks for the replies guys. StephenVA, so that I'm clear... are you saying that there's a large difference in the parts associated with the part numbers or that there's a large difference between OEM and and the China aftermarket parts? Or both?
Thanks. |
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#5
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All the above. Some of the older 3.0 non X5 even have a completely different separator system, so getting a good part that fits right will resolve fit and function issues up front. The cheap stuff never seems to fit right much less be reversed engineered well to function like an OE/OEM part. Most are cheap copies that really are just that, cheap to buy.
Ricky Bobby has the right parts numbers that you need to replace/upgrade the Separator hoses to the insulated tubes and replacing the separator itself. He is the "go to guy" on this issue. Remember these Do NOT SOLVE the basic need to bring the X5 to FULL operating oil temp (see oil temp gauge) for a mim of 60 mins, if you normally drive short distance when temp are below freezing. The fan wash, air temp running across our engines cools/freezes the water/oil vapor into a "mayo" like mash that clogs up the tubes with each cool down after driving. Pull the oil filer cap on gas fill ups to see if any "Mayo" is building up on the inside of the cap. Some of the posters who live in the rust belt/frozen wasteland, open the hood and remove the oil filler cap after driving to allow the vapors to vent out of the engine (just like vehicles did before 1971 Fed Regs on emissions were required). The trick here is the remember to reinstall that same cap before driving otherwise oil will be all over the engine bay in 10 miles and the cap will be laying in the road somewhere over your shoulder. If you live where is is always cold, I would recommend changing the oil frequently (6 months or 5K) making sure that the oil is at operational temp levels. This way all the water vapors are back to liquid and will pass out with the oil/filter change. It really is just cheap insurance. This is not just a BMW issue. We have large oil capacity pans when compared to domestic and Asian imports (4-5 Qts) which allow for higher temps to be reached in shorter periods, but then we would be having other issues. I service a family member's VW which builds up mayo in the filler tube (4 inches long) that is right in front of the engine. The whole damn tube is clogged in two to three weeks of short trips. Even running it down the interstate at 70 mph for 60 miles did not reduce the crap 20%.
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2005 X5 4.8IS The Blue ones are always FASTER.... Current Garage: 2005 X5 4.8is 2002 M5 TiSilver 2003 525iT 1998 528i Former Garage Stable Highlights 2004 325XiT Sport 1973 De Tomaso Pantera, L Model 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp Alpine White 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green 1971 Dart Sport, “Dart Light” package 1969 Road Runner 383 1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green |
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#6
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Wait a minute, the OP shows he is in San Diego, CA. ??!! Does it ever get cold there, like below 60 degrees? This is the place where palm trees are on every corner.....
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2005 X5 4.8IS The Blue ones are always FASTER.... Current Garage: 2005 X5 4.8is 2002 M5 TiSilver 2003 525iT 1998 528i Former Garage Stable Highlights 2004 325XiT Sport 1973 De Tomaso Pantera, L Model 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp Alpine White 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green 1971 Dart Sport, “Dart Light” package 1969 Road Runner 383 1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green |
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#7
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Quote:
No mayo but other signs point to CCV problems. |
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#8
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Your production date should be 10/05.
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#9
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Thanks
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#10
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Thanks
Thanks StephenVA. I'll get the OE parts.
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