HELP!!! 4.6is TRANSMISSION JUST WENT CAPUT... - Page 2

squidzilla · #11 06-11-2016, 02:34 PM

Yikes. The parts for the 4.6 TC are pricey compared to the other one.

Makes me wonder if I should look into some preventative maintenance.

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PR1AWRet · #12 06-12-2016, 05:49 PM

The NV125 and LWX500 also come in a 4.4. Here is my write up on it. Just get a chain for a NV125 it's the same. I checked mine over thoroughly and all the bearings were in great condition. Also a write up on stuff to look at while you are that far in. (replaced front drive shaft) Just got done rebuilding my transmission and reinstalling it.

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...95-lwa500.html

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...il-change.html

shebuilt · #13 06-19-2016, 01:12 PM

Well first leg done (have to work in intervals and can't have dirty hands for work)...next up is to remove trans shaft and front shaft.

Guys, is there any way to know if I need to rebuild my trans shaft or simply replace front shaft?

PR1AWRet · #14 06-19-2016, 02:07 PM

If you are referencing the front output shaft on the transfer case for the trans shaft, you will notice the splines are rounded off/stripped. If the front driveshaft splines are rounded off/stripped your front output shaft is stripped. Get an extended spline driveshaft, clean the splined area of the output shaft and lubricate it with grease or my favorite Anti Seize. Since you are going into the transfer case to replace the chain you could replace the front driveshaft with a stock one and get a new output shaft. Make sure you lubricate the splines. I paid about $120 for a new chain off of ebay, $150 for the extended drive shaft.
You only need to replace the front driveshaft with the extended one. It will use the extra inch or so of unused splines in the output shaft. Still look inside of the output shaft to make sure there are good splines back there. If you look at my LWX500 write up the chain wasn't stretched much and that's with 195,000 miles on it. You won't have to remove your transfer case if just putting in the extended spline drive shaft. It will have to be moved backwards though. Take the bolts out 1 at a time and screw it back about 2-3 turns. This should give you enough room. 2 bolts will support the weight of the transfer case if you buy some bolts that are longer so you can move the transfer case out even more. Screw these in at least 5-6 turns.

shebuilt · #15 06-19-2016, 10:15 PM

Apologies if I was unclear. Is there a way to know prior to yanking the transfer shaft off the back of the trans if I need to remove and rebuild it? Could this just be replace the front shaft with the increased length one and I am back on the road?

upallnight · #16 06-19-2016, 10:35 PM

Only way to tell if an extended spline shaft can get you back on the road is to yank off the existing front drive shaft and inspect the splines.

shebuilt · #17 06-26-2016, 10:39 AM

Update...got it out, put the new replacement in but after my darn case slipped off jack to ground and 4 times back and forth trying to line those splines up...I called it quits. Will complete next weekend free.

Question...someone stated prior to mark the shafts. Well I realized that the new one would have markings so what will this mean? It installed fantastic and plunged in with extreme tightness and no noise.

Also should I be severely frightened that I let my case slip and fall on its butt?

BTW those stupid skid plate 16mm! NIGHTMARE and can't believe I have to purchase new ones just because these came out!!!!

squidzilla · #18 06-26-2016, 10:52 AM

You mean the metal ski pate bolts? Lots of people reuse them.

I went to BMW of Murray a couple of years ago to get some of those bolts. They do not stock them and they said the service department frequently reuses them.

If I wanted them it was a special order. And this is place that if they see half a drop of oil somewhere, they suggest placing the gaskets, so I would think they would love to sell me some expensive bolts as an add on.

PR1AWRet · #19 06-26-2016, 11:36 AM

I rotate the case a little to each side so it slips into the splines. As I jack it up, I get the shaft from the trans and the input (hole) in the transfer case even then slide it on.

Don't worry about the marks with a new shaft, just put it in. I did with no problems. A 6000 mile trip and no vibrations, even when I hit 90-95 down the interstate. If you didn't mark the rear shaft, 9 of 10 times you'll not have a problem just installing it.

The transfer case is a pretty robust unit. If you dropped it and broke or cracked the case then yes you have a problem. Otherwise there shouldn't be anything wrong with it.

Reuse the bolts if not corroded. I replaced mine with grade 8 bolts and nuts because mine were corroded. The grade 8 bolts that I used have a higher shear factor but not that much more than the correct ones.

shebuilt · #20 06-27-2016, 09:14 PM

well thank you all! back in and sounds like factory brand new once again! I appreciate you all for helping. For those coming down the pike for this job - those skid plate 16's are nightmares and purchase the Torx 10 wrench.

Prior to this tiny little detour (NOT) I was in need of the right axle shaft replacement...starting a new thread on steps for this job.

Ahhhh...good day sunshine

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