M62 code 114 after doing timing guides.

[Wanarace]

Hi,

This is on an 4.4 2000 X5

I bought the x5 as a non runner because it needed the guides and tranny done. Fixed both. Problem is I am getting a code 114. 114 camshaft sensor bank 2 Current to big. The code could have been there before doing the guides. I was hoping it was just a bad sensor. But a new BMW sensor did not fix the problem. From what I have read it can be caused the cam timing being off as well.

Using INPA to read the bank 2 cam timing there is some weird stuff going on, or seems weird to me. Camshaft Bank 2 Timing is usually around 10 (Bank 1 is 0) Vanos angle 2 is 10.20 (angle 1 is 0) Which would lead me to believe the cam is off. The weird thing is moves around quite a bit. Bank 2 will go down to 0 for a bit, then bounce up to 34, then drop back to 10. Angle 2 also move around from 0 to 34.

Is this normal behavior? ECU trying to correct back cam timing? Or is it mechanical? Vanos unit going out? (There is 0 rattle on startup) and I changed out the check valves when doing the chains.

Also about 1000Km after fixing the guides a very loud tick developed from the bank 2 valve cover. Definitely sounds like a stuck or bad lifter. (slow cam speed, not faster like a rod)

Any ideas?
Thank you
Steve

[CapeX5]

A few thoughts. I have same truck as yours, but an 01. Search my threads, but I bought it with a known noise in engine. Was sure it was the guides/chains. I fought this thing for 5 months with the same noise after having the top of the engine apart at least 6 times. Here is a video of mine
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EnLj_-A7jE
I will cut to the chase. I had my oil pan off towards the end of one session and realized that cyl #5 was all scored. I could see it from the bottom and it just so happened that the piston was at the top of stroke. At that point I decided I needed to find another engine and do a swap. Did that and all has been perfect for 10K miles. But, I would have bet money(and kind of spent a lot) that the noise was coming from the valve train. You can hear it in the video. What I think was happening was that I had a bad coil connector, intermittent spark, gas washing the oil off the cylinder and the piston was scoring the walls so bad I started to get piston slap. But it sure sounded like valve/lifter/cam noise. Good luck with yours. I also chased a CPS sensor and found out the factory timing tools I was using were not getting the timing perfectly set. I bought the GAS tools and it was perfect the first time. No more codes or problems.

[Wanarace]

Thanks for the reply. I used the GAS tool to time mine. The tool is pretty much idiot proof as long as you do not force anything. The only thing I can think of is you might be able to have the timing wheel holder flipped over to wrong engine bank setting. Maybe that is what happened when I did it.

Either way I plan on pulling the valve cover and I should be able to double check the cam timing with the blocks. To do the wheel I will need to pull the upper chain cover as well.

Your tick to me does sound more like a slap then a tick to me. But I agree it is slow like cam speed, not crank speed. Mine is a very sharp tick. Seriously it sounds like a clock. I will try and get a video of mine. Either way, valve cover off to what's going on and I can check the lifters while I am in there.

Thanks for the help
Steve

[Wanarace]

https://youtu.be/OHnJA7n-cNQ

Here is a link to the video.

In a side note. Today when I started it, it sounded like there was some VANOS rattle.

Thanks
Steve

[Wanarace]

Mini update. Flushed the engine with Liquimoly snake oil and refilled with Amsoil Euro 0w40. 20km later and it still sounds the same. When I get a chance to pull the valve cover I can see if the head is any cleaner.

The good news is the old oil (only had 1000k on it) was pretty clean. As was the magnet on my drain plug. So I am still hopeful that I did not wipe a bearing. However, there are still some aluminum flakes, mainly in the filter, I am assuming it's from the timing chain rubbing the chain cover when guides went.

I saw the pressure switch on the oil filter mount. I am going to try and tee in a pressure gauge. Just gotta figure out the threads. I doubt it is a simple 1/8th inch npt.

I will update if anything changes.
Thanks
Steve