BMW Code Meanings 5F1E

[rule1110]

Hi there

I've used the BMW Carly app to get this ABS/DSC/Brake code 005F1E from my e53 but can't seem to find anything online as to what it might mean.
Anyone have any ideas?
Cheers
Nial

[wpoll]

There's a list of codes here: -

BMW ABS fault codes and their meanings. BMW fault code definitions list.

However, yours isn't listed. What year, engine etc. have you got and do you know the ABS system/module version?

[rule1110]

Originally Posted by wpoll

There's a list of codes here: -

BMW ABS fault codes and their meanings. BMW fault code definitions list.

However, yours isn't listed. What year, engine etc. have you got and do you know the ABS system/module version?

It is a 2005 3.0 Diesel Engine, Australian delivered model.
Not sure what ABS system/module version, how would I find that out?

I managed to find this that says it is the front right wheel speed sensor but it is the only thing I can find attached to that code. The carly app doesn't tell me anymore unfortunately. I've attached the carly report.
OBD Cloud - Pay As You Go Automotive Data. Powered by Autodata.

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by rule1110

It is a 2005 3.0 Diesel Engine, Australian delivered model.
Not sure what ABS system/module version, how would I find that out?

Same as mine (well, apart form the Aussie bit... ) - mine scans as a Bosch unit - BMW # 6768688

I'll keep looking. What are your symptoms, or is this just a stray code?

[rule1110]

Originally Posted by wpoll

Same as mine (well, apart form the Aussie bit... ) - mine scans as a Bosch unit - BMW # 6768688

I'll keep looking. What are your symptoms, or is this just a stray code?

The code just keeps coming back after I clear it. I also have codes come up for glow plugs and instrument cluster but I'm trying to work this one out first. No dash lights come on when driving but the code comes back continually after clearing it.
I do have some issues with the transmission but I don't think they are related. These are the transmission issues if you have any ideas on those.

1. The car has the lurch when coming to a stop, kind of feels like being slightly nudged from behind when coming to a stop. It has 177 000km on it and always had it since I bought it 5000km ago. It isn't a huge problem as it seems to be common on other cars but the interesting thing I discovered recently was that the lurch is completely gone with using the sport mode of the transmission so I'm thinking it maybe a software issue. The car hasn't been serviced at a dealership since 2007/2008 so I doubt it would have had any updates applied to it as the other services with independents.
2. When cold the transmission feels like it is slipping out of first gear for a split second which results in a decent clunk and a jerking feeling. It is only brief and completely disappears once the car is up to temp. It doesn't happen all the time but it happens 99% when you are taking off on an incline and then turning (either left or right). It only seems to happen once then the car will drive fine from there until it is allowed to fully cool down over a number of hours.

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by rule1110

The code just keeps coming back after I clear it. I also have codes come up for glow plugs and instrument cluster but I'm trying to work this one out first. No dash lights come on when driving but the code comes back continually after clearing it.
I do have some issues with the transmission but I don't think they are related. These are the transmission issues if you have any ideas on those.

1. The car has the lurch when coming to a stop, kind of feels like being slightly nudged from behind when coming to a stop. It has 177 000km on it and always had it since I bought it 5000km ago. It isn't a huge problem as it seems to be common on other cars but the interesting thing I discovered recently was that the lurch is completely gone with using the sport mode of the transmission so I'm thinking it maybe a software issue. The car hasn't been serviced at a dealership since 2007/2008 so I doubt it would have had any updates applied to it as the other services with independents.
2. When cold the transmission feels like it is slipping out of first gear for a split second which results in a decent clunk and a jerking feeling. It is only brief and completely disappears once the car is up to temp. It doesn't happen all the time but it happens 99% when you are taking off on an incline and then turning (either left or right). It only seems to happen once then the car will drive fine from there until it is allowed to fully cool down over a number of hours.

Not sure about the ABS code, but if the issue remains at large, the code will return. I have a few odd codes on mine too, but they don't present as anything other than codes in a scan.

The glow plug codes are common on our diesels: -

4212 Glow Plug Cyl 1 - Activation Interrupted
4222 Glow Plug Cyl 2 - Activation Interrupted
4232 Glow Plug Cyl 3 - Activation Interrupted
4242 Glow Plug Cyl 4 - Activation Interrupted
4252 Glow Plug Cyl 5 - Activation Interrupted

you get the idea...

4203 Glow Module Communication

Maybe these are all the result of a poor battery voltage at some point...? So historical. No trouble cold starting? Smoke etc.?

Re. the transmission - mine does the 2-1 lurch too - I've modified my driving habits to best avoid it. Had the dealer reset the trans adaptations, despite knowing this wouldn't "fix" it; I wasn't disappointed. I'd love to deal to this one day, if it IS a simple S/W update. Local dealer doesn't think so. But yeah, it's fine in Sport more. Very odd - but very common.

The first gear slipping issues I've not had. There's a ton of ZF 6HP26X knowledge here - hopefully someone can shed some light on this for you.

[rule1110]

Originally Posted by wpoll

Not sure about the ABS code, but if the issue remains at large, the code will return. I have a few odd codes on mine too, but they don't present as anything other than codes in a scan.

The glow plug codes are common on our diesels: -

4212 Glow Plug Cyl 1 - Activation Interrupted
4222 Glow Plug Cyl 2 - Activation Interrupted
4232 Glow Plug Cyl 3 - Activation Interrupted
4242 Glow Plug Cyl 4 - Activation Interrupted
4252 Glow Plug Cyl 5 - Activation Interrupted

you get the idea...

4203 Glow Module Communication

Maybe these are all the result of a poor battery voltage at some point...? So historical. No trouble cold starting? Smoke etc.?

Re. the transmission - mine does the 2-1 lurch too - I've modified my driving habits to best avoid it. Had the dealer reset the trans adaptations, despite knowing this wouldn't "fix" it; I wasn't disappointed. I'd love to deal to this one day, if it IS a simple S/W update. Local dealer doesn't think so. But yeah, it's fine in Sport more. Very odd - but very common.

The first gear slipping issues I've not had. There's a ton of ZF 6HP26X knowledge here - hopefully someone can shed some light on this for you.

Thanks for your help. The 2-1 lurch is frustrating but not sure what can be done about it.

I do notice I get a small amount of smoke on startup but it goes away straight away. Never has any issues starting though. Any ideas on what that means?

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by rule1110

Thanks for your help. The 2-1 lurch is frustrating but not sure what can be done about it.

I think a variation on the 80/20 rule applies here - 20% of my pay packet will fix 80% of the issues on my X5 - the remaining 20% of the issues will easily consume the remaining 80% of my pay packet!!

Originally Posted by rule1110

I do notice I get a small amount of smoke on startup but it goes away straight away. Never has any issues starting though. Any ideas on what that means?

I had a little smoke/soot on hard acceleration and I searched for a cause (other than the diesel in the fuel tank!) and I found the thermostat was stuck open, so the engine was running too cold. Temp gauge is sitting nicely in the dead centre now (was struggling to get to 11 o'clock prior to changing the thermostat) and soot on acceleration is hugely reduced. Engine runs much better now.

With the age/miles on these things, the thermostat, the crankcase vent system and the battery are all worth a good looking at.

[rule1110]

Originally Posted by wpoll

I think a variation on the 80/20 rule applies here - 20% of my pay packet will fix 80% of the issues on my X5 - the remaining 20% of the issues will easily consume the remaining 80% of my pay packet!!



I had a little smoke/soot on hard acceleration and I searched for a cause (other than the diesel in the fuel tank!) and I found the thermostat was stuck open, so the engine was running too cold. Temp gauge is sitting nicely in the dead centre now (was struggling to get to 11 o'clock prior to changing the thermostat) and soot on acceleration is hugely reduced. Engine runs much better now.

With the age/miles on these things, the thermostat, the crankcase vent system and the battery are all worth a good looking at.

Thanks for the advice. Was the thermostat hard to replace? My temp gauge sits in the middle most of the time but will drop back to 11 o'clock occasionally on a cold morning. Might be worth looking into.

Is it crankcase cent system the PCV? I bought that part not too long ago and manage to change it with the help of a good youtube video on it.

Haven't given much though to the battery either, not sure when it would have been last changed. Seems to crank fine though.

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by rule1110

Thanks for the advice. Was the thermostat hard to replace? My temp gauge sits in the middle most of the time but will drop back to 11 o'clock occasionally on a cold morning. Might be worth looking into.

Is it crankcase cent system the PCV? I bought that part not too long ago and manage to change it with the help of a good youtube video on it.

Haven't given much though to the battery either, not sure when it would have been last changed. Seems to crank fine though.

Thermostat sounds ok but if you are keen, you can monitor the engine temp via the onboard-computer (BC) on the cluster (dash) - item #7 once you unlock the BC. And item #9 is the battery voltage. Monitor them both for a few normal driving cycles to put you mind at rest then just enjoy the ride!

Yes, the PCV is the crankcase vent - our LCI cars use the newer vortex style oil separator. It shouldn't need much maint. but I'll swap out the vortex module and gaskets when I hit 200,000kms (later this year).

BTW, if you monitor the battery voltage via the BC, it seems to read about 0.4-0.5v low - 13.8v on the BC is 14.2v at the battery charge terminals on my car. If I see 13.8v on the BC, I know I'm good.

I can tell when my battery is getting a little low though. Short runs and cold morning (plus extended use of the aux. heater on remote! ) mean that the battery loses charge over the course of my normal week. By Friday, I can see the ASC/DSC and/or ABS lights pop up briefly as I turn the starter, indicating a low-volt condition. They only flicker briefly but I can tell it's time for a decent drive or an external charger.

My normal startup routine involves turning the key to the run position, then waiting for the ASC/DCS to go out (after they complete the self-test cycle), then flicking the key to the start position. If the ASC/DSC lights flicker during the crank, then the battery is getting a little low.

This isn't gospel, just what I've noticed in a year and 20,000kms of ownership...

*edit* - nominal operating temp for our diesels is 88 Deg. C.