BMW Code Meanings 5F1E

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by rule1110

Thanks mate, I'll have a read of these.
To answer the question about tow bar it doesn't have one fitted. I can't see any signs of one being fitted either as the plastic cut out where the tow bar would go is still in place.

Meh - probably a red herring anyway. Reading some of those threads, it seems like either a few vehicles have this code sitting in memory for an unknown reason or the reason isn't related to the towing package - some other issue deactivates the "Trailer Oscillation Logic" in the ABS/DSC module.

[rule1110]

Originally Posted by wpoll

Oh yeah, you asked about the thermostat task - not too bad. Cost for OEM unit was NZ$175 so rather expensive but I wouldn't trust any other brand for this part.

Here's my post on the task: -

http://www.xoutpost.com/1079662-post7235.html


Took me about two hours, taking my time. The coolant bleeding etc. took the most time.

Got any more advice on replacing the thermostat? I'm going to buy an OE thermostat for $99 AU and give it ago.

What's involved with bleeding the coolant and how much will I need to refill it ? Also any special tools required like odd sized torx bolts ?

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by rule1110

Got any more advice on replacing the thermostat? I'm going to buy an OE thermostat for $99 AU and give it ago.

What's involved with bleeding the coolant and how much will I need to refill it ? Also any special tools required like odd sized torx bolts ?

You will need e-torx sockets for this job - the thermostat body is held in place with four e8(?) e-torx bolts. You can get a full set of e-torx sockets for $20-30.

There's a few resources that give good pointers on how to change the thermostat on the E53 3.0d.

Firstly, here's a link to the thermostat section in a workshop manual on the web...

BMW Workshop Manuals > X Series E53 X5 3.0d (M57) OFFRD > 2 Repair Instructions > 11 Engine (M57) > 53 Thermostat And Connections > 1 RA Removing And Installing Or Replacing Coolant Thermostat (M57) > Page 579

This manual shows the pre-facelift car (M57 vs M57TU) but most of the steps are correct. On the facelift (LCI) model, you can leave the fan and the A/C belt alone - there's room to work behind them. I also didn't remove the charge air hose in step three on page 580; I used a ring spanner (10mm?) to remove vacuum pump outlet hose retainer bolt (#2 in diagram) from underneath the charge air hose.

Step four on page 580 - item 1 - remove EGR clamp - this clamp is rather odd and completely encloses the EGR joint - take your time pulling this off - it needs to be undone, then opened up to allow the EGR pipe to come free from the inlet body. The clamp is attached to the EGR pipe from memory.

Print these there pages (589, 580 & 581) - they are your main guide.

Then there's this YouTube video...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aNi4BjkRJoY

Not the most comprehensive DIY video ever made but it contained proof that this task doesn't require removal of the fan on the LCI models.

I drained the coolant before doing this (remover lower splash shield, then drain radiator etc. via rad. drain bolt - 14mm (?) socket to undo plastic drain bolt). I used 6-7 litres of coolant when I refilled and bled the system once I was done.

Bleeding process is also well covered on the web - here's the workshop manual pages (LCI manual this time)...

BMW Workshop Manuals > X Series E53 X5 3.0d (M57TU) OFFRD > 2 Repair Instructions > 17 Cooling System (M57TU) > 0 Coolant, Checking Cooling System > 5 RA Venting Cooling System And Checking For Water Leaks (M57TU, M57T2)

Take note about the vent screws and DEFINITELY take note about covering the alternator - bleeding can be messy and you don't want coolant in your alternator!

Hope this all helps.

[rule1110]

Originally Posted by wpoll

You will need e-torx sockets for this job - the thermostat body is held in place with four e8(?) e-torx bolts. You can get a full set of e-torx sockets for $20-30.

There's a few resources that give good pointers on how to change the thermostat on the E53 3.0d.

Firstly, here's a link to the thermostat section in a workshop manual on the web...

BMW Workshop Manuals > X Series E53 X5 3.0d (M57) OFFRD > 2 Repair Instructions > 11 Engine (M57) > 53 Thermostat And Connections > 1 RA Removing And Installing Or Replacing Coolant Thermostat (M57) > Page 579

This manual shows the pre-facelift car (M57 vs M57TU) but most of the steps are correct. On the facelift (LCI) model, you can leave the fan and the A/C belt alone - there's room to work behind them. I also didn't remove the charge air hose in step three on page 580; I used a ring spanner (10mm?) to remove vacuum pump outlet hose retainer bolt (#2 in diagram) from underneath the charge air hose.

Step four on page 580 - item 1 - remove EGR clamp - this clamp is rather odd and completely encloses the EGR joint - take your time pulling this off - it needs to be undone, then opened up to allow the EGR pipe to come free from the inlet body. The clamp is attached to the EGR pipe from memory.

Print these there pages (589, 580 & 581) - they are your main guide.

Then there's this YouTube video...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aNi4BjkRJoY

Not the most comprehensive DIY video ever made but it contained proof that this task doesn't require removal of the fan on the LCI models.

I drained the coolant before doing this (remover lower splash shield, then drain radiator etc. via rad. drain bolt - 14mm (?) socket to undo plastic drain bolt). I used 6-7 litres of coolant when I refilled and bled the system once I was done.

Bleeding process is also well covered on the web - here's the workshop manual pages (LCI manual this time)...

BMW Workshop Manuals > X Series E53 X5 3.0d (M57TU) OFFRD > 2 Repair Instructions > 17 Cooling System (M57TU) > 0 Coolant, Checking Cooling System > 5 RA Venting Cooling System And Checking For Water Leaks (M57TU, M57T2)

Take note about the vent screws and DEFINITELY take note about covering the alternator - bleeding can be messy and you don't want coolant in your alternator!

Hope this all helps.

I ended up paying the shop to replace my thermostat as I wasn't confident doing it all myself. It fixed the running cool issue as now heats up to 88 degrees pretty quick and stays there.

I meant to ask how do you drive to avoid the 2-1 hard downshift? Sometimes it doesn't do it but I haven't figured out how to not do it more often than not.

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by rule1110

I ended up paying the shop to replace my thermostat as I wasn't confident doing it all myself. It fixed the running cool issue as now heats up to 88 degrees pretty quick and stays there.

I meant to ask how do you drive to avoid the 2-1 hard downshift? Sometimes it doesn't do it but I haven't figured out how to not do it more often than not.

Glad to hear the thermo replacement fixed the cold running.

My 6HP26 transmission only gives the hard 2-1 shift if I'm rolling to a stop with little or no load on the driveline - like rolling up to a stop light or moving at a snails-pace very near stopping, like in very slow traffic. If I pull up briskly it's fine. So I avoid rolling stops - I slow down and stop smartly, instead of creeping. In slow traffic, if my speed falls to the point where I know I'm going to get the jolt, I just dab the brakes and come to a full stop. The shift to first then happens with the car stopped and there's no jolt.

It's easy to do and becomes second-nature after a few days...