What else should I change...?

[xRide]

I just did an inspection on the truck and these are the things that need attention.

Passenger side Valve cover gasket
The main power steering hose
Passenger side Axle boot
Ecentric sensor gasket/seal...both sides
Transmission pan Gasket
Oil Pan gasket

Should I also change the driver side valve cover gasket?
Upper timing change cover gasket?

or what else should I change while I'm at it?

[bhennrich]

If you are going to do the transmission pan gasket, you should do the transmission fluid filter (and pan cleaning process) while you are in there, along with the mechatronic sealing ring that seals the wiring from the body of the car to the trans and can only be released with the pan dropped...

[xRide]

I was contemplating not touching the transmission gasket since bmw says its lifetime and I'm not having any transmission issue. But if it's leaking, I suspect I'll develop tranny problems from low fluid. It's not leaking bad . It's just wet at around half way the pan.

[Fifty150hs]

Originally Posted by xRide

I just did an inspection on the truck and these are the things that need attention.

Passenger side Valve cover gasket
The main power steering hose
Passenger side Axle boot
Ecentric sensor gasket/seal...both sides
Transmission pan Gasket
Oil Pan gasket

Should I also change the driver side valve cover gasket?
Upper timing change cover gasket?

or what else should I change while I'm at it?

First thing should be the CV boot. If you wait too long you spin all the grease out and then it destroys itself which causes further problems.

BMW's lifetime tranny fluid is for the life they see for the car, 100k miles. Change the filter and fluid when you change the gasket.

[bhennrich]

The transmission IS BY NO MEANS LIFETIME FLUID! Do the gasket and items I mentioned! Trust me, this is a STANDARD preventative maintenance item and if you already have leakage it needs to be darn near the top of your list.

[OnTouring]

Yes, do the timing cover gasket with the valve cover gasket. It's right there once you have it open, requires minimal extra disassembly to access, and a pain if it leaks after you've done the valve cover (VCG comes off again).

If you're comfortable enough with the passenger side VCG & TCG, and have time (and patience) to kill, I'd do driver's side too for peace of mind. Though each side can be done as needed, and would be more economical that way, I'd rather hit both in one shot and be on my way.

And if you're really crazy like me, you'll open the passenger side, plan to do the driver's side alongside it, and end up doing the valve seals "while you're in there"

[StephenVA]

+1 on all the trans and valve covers, sensor seals, etc. On the Power steering I would just replace everything once.

Power Steering lines- Suction pipe 32416763977 1x $37.35
Power Steering lines - Radiator return Hose 32416763978 1x $40.71
Clamps- Worm Drive (Suction Pipe) D=20,9-24,1 32111131345 2x $2.12
Clamps - Crimp Type (Return Line) D=16,6-20MM 16121180242 1x $1.61
Reservoir 32416851217 1 $48.56

Total $130.35

[jsoto]

Truck new to you ?

If if it me, I the garage floor was not getting stained..I'd probably start on suspension, hoses, power and cooling system. Then work my way on dealing with the gaskets...the gaskets are cheap. The time, well, the oil pan took me the better part of one weekend...