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#11
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#12
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I am also having the exact same problem. I have replaced all 4 rotors, pads. I bought the 10 piece Lemforder control arm kit and replaced everything except the steering tie rod assembly. The shake is a lot better, but still there when braking hard on the freeway. Around town it drives fine. Do you think the tie rods could be the problem??
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#13
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looking for answers for a vehicle with 190K could be considered a crap shoot. Perhaps the course of least resistance might be a trip to the dealer for a coupon front end inspection. The dealer gives these inspection discounts to get you in later for repairs but the inspection reveals a lot about the condition of your vehicle. After you have the report in hand just pick and choose what you can afford to repair with your indy. Just keep quiet and don't let on about what work others have performed. People on this site like to bash the dealer but let's face it they do have good training. You just need to know how to use them to your advantage. I've had them diagnose issues before then got the problem repaired at my indy. It was worth the few dollars spent not having to guess about a problem I couldn't solve. Wish you success.
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"What you hear in a great jazz band is the sound of democracy. “The jazz band works best when participation is shaped by intelligent communication.” Harmony happens whenever different parts get to form a whole by means of congruity, concord, symetry, consistency, conformity, correspondence, agreement, accord, unity, consonance……. |
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#14
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Thank you all for your thoughtful responses.
Some of you had noted the high miles. This is not my primary vehicle. Bought this as a "project car" but glad I can drive it while I get my hands dirty, too. So, yes it is an older car (with lots of miles) but I am having fun working on it. Spent the past 11 months in the hospital with cancer at 39 so now that I am out, I am glad to finally be able to live this little dream of playing part-time mechanic! Now, a few more details: 1) Some of you suggested rotating all tires. Have done that, along with balancing etc... Didn't help. 2) One thing I've noticed is that the steering isn't "sharp". I guess that is expected for this many miles. Again, the lower control arms were just replaced. Should I change the upper and the steering rod, too? Could this be the reason behind the shaking? What other component should I change? 3) One strange thing I have noticed is that when in low speeds (less than a few miles per hour) I brake and hold to a full stop, the car shift slightly to the front right. I want to make sure I am clear: this is not an alignment issue, where braking leads to car pulling right or left. This is more like a body shift to the front right. Imagine what would happen if the front right wheel stopped harder and quicker than the one on the left... This could be a sticky caliper but again, they assured me that there were no issues there.
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2013 X6 50i - 72k 2013 750i M - 42k |
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#15
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Suggest having the suspension checked by a well recommended BMW specializing Independent shop but if you haven't re-seated the brakes I would do that first.
Did original owner have service records or can you check to see if the suspension was rebuilt? Usually life of front suspension is any time after 75,000 miles with the majority seeing a rebuild at about 100,000 miles. Worn suspension can cause pulling to one side and if suspension needs repair it may not be holding an alignment. The following is an example of parts that are changed in a front suspension rebuild. https://www.ecstuning.com/News/BMW_E...004_2005_2006/
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Dallas Last edited by bcredliner; 09-03-2016 at 08:18 AM. |
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#16
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#17
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Most likely it is the thrust arms (AKA upper control arm or tension arm) bushings that are worn. Perhaps the reason why the the car shift to the right is weight transfer and you have a worn suspension component that is moving when the weight of the car is transfer forward as you stop.
Here's a pic of the tension/upper control/ thrust arm. ![]() I just replace my tension/upper control/thrust arm bushings with polyurethane bushing.
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2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD |
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#18
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Update:
Took the car to another shop today to see if they can figure out what is going. They are suppose to get back to me tomorrow. One thing I noticed today is that the steering only shakes when the car is shifting weight forward (during braking at any speed). In other words, if I brake gently enough at any speed where the car's front doesn't nose down per se, then there is no issue (no steering shaking). And likewise, even at lower speeds, if I brake hard and the car noses down, the steering column shakes. This makes me think that perhaps there is a worn out suspension part. Question is, which one?!
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2013 X6 50i - 72k 2013 750i M - 42k |
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#19
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Consider a full rebuild kit. The life of suspension parts are near the same. Doing a compete rebuild will save labor cost and failing parts accelerate wear on other parts of the suspension.
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Dallas |
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#20
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