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#1
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Replacing CCV. Are the new parts from BMW updated or the same?
I do have a little sludge under the oil cap of my new E53. It doesn't burn much oil that I can tell, but I believe the crankcase ventilator is original and at 95,000 miles I would like to change it. My question is this. I have seen the TSB that describes the issue dated March 2009. However, it uses somewhat ambiguous language about whether or not the CCV parts are actually updated to solve the problem, or whether they are just the same parts that were put on cold weather models. Anyone have any insight? I did a little searching but failed to find a conclusive answer. Link to said TSB: http://chrisparente.com/Images/530/CCV-SIB110803.pdf Thanks in advance!
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2003 3.0 5MT Topasblau Purchased in 2016 and surprisingly still running |
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#2
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Anybody? I did more reading this week and still couldn't find the answer. Seems that BMW's solution is just to use the cold weather part again and plan on replacing it again in a few years.
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2003 3.0 5MT Topasblau Purchased in 2016 and surprisingly still running |
#3
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I looked into that when I first got my 2001 3.0i a couple of years ago. The PO had the dealer replace all the CCV system, and after seeing info on this site, I looked into it to see if it was done right.
My understanding is that the TSB and new part numbers are only for cold climates. I'm in NorCal, which is not cold, but with occasional trips to the mountains. They installed the original (non-cold-climate) part numbers, and the dealer assured me that for my purposes, it would be fine. So to be clearer - my understanding is that the non-cold-climate parts are the same as they have always been. BTW, on these CCV systems - do things actually wear out, requiring replacement, or is it that they are neglected and get dirty/plugged up, leading to system failure? The answer to that will tell me whether it is important to keep the system clean or to just plan on replacing at a certain interval.
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2001 X5 3.0i, 203k miles, AT, owned since 2014 |
#4
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Quote:
I replace them every three years or so. To do the job right, R+R the dipstick and clean out the inner oil return channel, or at least run some stiff wire and a squirt of carb cleaner through it. It's a goofy design with a tube pinched in a tube. I have a new cold weather CCV kit and a cold weather dipstick, part # 11437563831 on my bench for the next replacement in a month or two. The cold weather dipstick eliminates the inner drain channel and just returns oil straight into main tube leading to the sump. It looks identical to the standard dipstick.
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12 E70 3.5i xDrive 03 E46 330i ZHP 01 E53 3.0i 98 E36 323is 12 Audi A4 Quattro 79 Triumph Spitfire 73 MGB |
#5
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So it sounds like there was no update to the part. That's a shame since the problem is clearly caused by a design fault.
Especially considering its not rocket science and every other OEM has had no issues with oil air separators, almost without exception. If I was more motivated I'd pull one off another car and figure out how to retrofit it.
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2003 3.0 5MT Topasblau Purchased in 2016 and surprisingly still running |
#6
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Be thankful these are the only parts you need for the update. On the 4.4 it's a new cover on the one side plus the insulated hoses. I did the cold weather upgrade on mine. Not sure if the diaphragms on yours are replaceable - they are on the 4.4's.
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Daily Drivers: - 2008 535i, 290,000km - 2004 X5 4.4, 01/2004 production, 380,000km - 1998 328i, 370,000km Track: - 1996 328i, track/race car, ~300,000km Winter: - 2013 Ski-Doo MXZ X 800 E-TEC, trail can - 2001 Ski-Doo MXZ 600 w/800 engine, exhaust - 1978 Ski-Doo Olympique 340 (vintage race sled) - 1977 Ski-Doo Olympique 340E |
#7
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Personally, I don't see how MuCh of a difference the insulated can bring to the table. Better off just bringing the oil to temp during those months when you think you are not burning off moisture
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#8
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This issue raises its ugly head every Jan -Feb on the forum as winter's temps plummet and the water vapors freeze in the hoses over night. With air temps and wind chill temps keeping under hood temps low while driving, the problem only gets worse over time until total failure. This issue is not just a BMW issue is it with all cars during winter months.
Example: I worked on a VW last winter that had a cup of mayo on the oil filler cap and the tube leading down through the intake. Total mess. Bottom Line: Replace all the CCV/Oil separator parts now in the fall before the temps drop, if it has NOT been done before under your watch or confirmed from maintenance records. Be especially aware that the dip stick return line and the dip stick tube itself needs to be free of dried caked oil to allow proper flow of oil back to the oil pan. For best results remove the tube and flush with brake clean. Alternative choice: You can use a weed trimmer line to clean out the passageways without removing the tube itself. The upgraded cold weather parts are just that, a factory update. Not a re-engineering of the oil separator solution. IMHO I would replace everything with the cold weather parts if the winter day time temp in your area are below 45 degrees.
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2005 X5 4.8IS The Blue ones are always FASTER.... Current Garage: 2005 X5 4.8is 2002 M5 TiSilver 2003 525iT 1998 528i Former Garage Stable Highlights 2004 325XiT Sport 1973 De Tomaso Pantera, L Model 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp Alpine White 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green 1971 Dart Sport, “Dart Light” package 1969 Road Runner 383 1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green |
#9
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Quote:
I found this on E46fanatics. They know this engine family really well. 10 years ago, when few wanted to do any serious mods to X5s because they were still under warranty, they were already taking their motors apart.
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2001 E53 3.0 5pd Last edited by lo_jack; 09-26-2016 at 12:46 PM. |
#10
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