Best Window Regulator?

[cn90]

- If you search ebay and amazon for LF Window regulator, PN 51338254911, there are so many mfg's (mostly Chinese) listed on amazon, it is "good business" selling WR LOL.


- Anyway, this make Brand A-Premium Power Window Regulator Without Motor for BMW X5 E53 2000-2006 Front Left Driver Side has 5 great reviews so far and is $30. Has anyone used this particular brand?

https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Windo.../dp/B01I82XJT0

[mr_robot]

Is oem the best way to go for the fronts? My driver side although still working it clanks when I shut the door only when the windows are rolled all the way down, otherwise no noise.

But when it’s fully closed I hear a clicking rattle inside my door panel and it’s driving me nuts as it right by my side.

I hate pulling my door panels so before I do I rather have all my parts ready to go so I don’t have to do this twice.

Aftermarket regulators are more temping due to it being a 1/4 of the price of OEM.

I did replace the rear with a dorman part and looked exactly like the oem, same color gears and all.

Bavauto offers Uro brand and states it exceeds oem by 6x something and half the price.


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[Dking078]

Originally Posted by mr_robot

Is oem the best way to go for the fronts? My driver side although still working it clanks when I shut the door only when the windows are rolled all the way down, otherwise no noise.

But when it’s fully closed I hear a clicking rattle inside my door panel and it’s driving me nuts as it right by my side.

Did you zip tie the wire cable going (up and across) the "beam" of the door?

There is supposed to be a factory tie there that stops that rattle.

[Gregory891]

dannyzabolotny.

Been there, done that. I've removed door panels a few times, to replace different things INCLUDING window regulators. I used to be in the trade, ran my own shop and have seen the differences in finish and quality of various part alternatives.

For the E53 - a genuine one is THE way to go. They are not cheap but you'll only do this one time and be fine for 10+ years - so what is your time work vs. lower quality alternatives make in Turkey or China?

An acceptable alternative is a used genuine one. I did this for a rear door (which isn't used as frequently), cost for the regulator was the equivalent of $35 US - so the time to replace with cost of a new genuine one came into my decision. Similarly I have a good (inspected and properly lubed) left front in reserve for the day when my left front regulator fails (or to help any local friend with an E53). Why used for THIS one? It came from a UK car, so the left front isn't used as much and the equivalent of $35 US was part of the decision for a reserve part. This option naturally wouldn't help anyone in North America.

If you go new, a number of US BMW dealers will give approx 25% discount for mail order (you'll find them as advertisers in the BMW CCA Roundel magazine).

Regardless of your choice, you will want a heat gun or hair dryer to soften up the black sticky stuff to gently peel back the vapor barrier. You will DEFINITELY want to replace the window to regulator plastic clips, which become brittle over time. You will need two of BMW part number 51 33 8 254 781 (about $1-2 each, buy the genuine part at your local dealer) for each front door (if you decide to go proactive) and one for each rear door.

You don't need to disconnect the battery to avoid air bag error codes or related. Leave the car off until it goes into sleep mode (approx 15 minutes after shutting the car off), without the key in the ignition when you do the work.

If you want to lube the window slider felt parts - 3M silicone lube (you can buy in a bottle/brush setup) is a good product.

As you are opening up the door, consider adding Dynamat or similar inside the door shell, it makes a notable difference.

[CrazyOneToo]

Originally Posted by Gregory891

dannyzabolotny.

For the E53 - a genuine one is THE way to go. They are not cheap but you'll only do this one time and be fine for 10+ years - so what is your time work vs. lower quality alternatives make in Turkey or China?

Hello. I am replacing the front regulators on my 2002 X5. I ordered a set of "Genuine BMW" from FCPEuro. They were not cheap and when I got them they had the "brose" brand stamped into them. Is that an OEM brand or was it a bait and switch? If they were cheaper priced I would not care to save some cash but that is not the case here. I paid the BMW price and want OEM.
Thanks
Alan

_

[X5chemist]

I had to fix mine fast. I ordered a Chinese replacement. It's slow compared to OEM. I saved the original one. The plastic window cable regulator broke. If I had looked, an $11 part would fix the OEM regulator. Once the cheapy fails, the repaired OEM one will go back in. For now, I have other things to fix.

[oldskewel]

Originally Posted by CrazyOneToo

Hello. I am replacing the front regulators on my 2002 X5. I ordered a set of "Genuine BMW" from FCPEuro. They were not cheap and when I got them they had the "brose" brand stamped into them. Is that an OEM brand or was it a bait and switch? If they were cheaper priced I would not care to save some cash but that is not the case here. I paid the BMW price and want OEM.
Thanks
Alan

_

As far as I know, for my 2001 3.0i, the original regulators were made by Brose. They have BMW roundels and Brose stamped on them.

You might want to look at a recent thread here on OE vs. OEM vs. Genuine vs. OES vs. aftermarket vs. etc. It is fairly complicated, especially when everybody seems to have different understandings of what the labels mean.

So if your new parts say BMW, they are definitely Genuine parts (well, unless they are straight-up fake, which is not yet common here). If they don't say BMW, but say Brose, they would be considered OES (since Brose originally supplied [the "S" in OES] this exact part to originally built cars), or OE (since the S is sometimes not included, and OE means the same as OES). And sometimes, I have seen Genuine parts (for BMW and other brands) that don't have the BMW logo, just the OES or OE brand, so if you have that, I would not worry. Either way, you are good to go with Brose.

[CrazyOneToo]

Originally Posted by oldskewel

As far as I know, for my 2001 3.0i, the original regulators were made by Brose. They have BMW roundels and Brose stamped on them.

You might want to look at a recent thread here on OE vs. OEM vs. Genuine vs. OES vs. aftermarket vs. etc. It is fairly complicated, especially when everybody seems to have different understandings of what the labels mean.

So if your new parts say BMW, they are definitely Genuine parts (well, unless they are straight-up fake, which is not yet common here). If they don't say BMW, but say Brose, they would be considered OES (since Brose originally supplied [the "S" in OES] this exact part to originally built cars), or OE (since the S is sometimes not included, and OE means the same as OES). And sometimes, I have seen Genuine parts (for BMW and other brands) that don't have the BMW logo, just the OES or OE brand, so if you have that, I would not worry. Either way, you are good to go with Brose.

Yes, mine have the BMW logo stamped into them also but I had never heard of brose.
I know the popular brands of Bosch, Bremi, Hella, Behr, Febi Bilstein, etc.

Thanks for your help.

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[CrazyOneToo]

Originally Posted by X5chemist

I had to fix mine fast. I ordered a Chinese replacement. It's slow compared to OEM. I saved the original one. The plastic window cable regulator broke. If I had looked, an $11 part would fix the OEM regulator. Once the cheapy fails, the repaired OEM one will go back in. For now, I have other things to fix.

Yeah that sounds good. I would rather have OEM but I have replaced mine in the past with cheaper ones and now regret not spending more for OEM.
Since I have an E46 E53 and an E85 there is always something to buy either for mods, cosmetics, or repair. YaY me.

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[themechanic]

I replaced three regulators and went with the URO parts brand. I didn’t take a picture side by side, the mangled one in the picture is the old one. Windows go up and down faster than the old units but that is to be expected.


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