Please HELP BMW X5 3.0i Transmission slipping. , Thank you

[ADAM786]

Hi my name is Adam Im a newbie, having some issues with my BMW X5 3.0i Sport Auto I think has the 5L40 E GM transmission?

Baby on way so cant really afford a new rebuild tranny nor sell the car so please help:

Quick Background:
Bought it one month ago, gear changes were ok but bit 'rough' so decided on a transmission service, bought the kit from the stealers and used Dexron 6 ATF took 5.5 litres, used local garage.

3 Weeks later starting Slipping the transmission did not like being distrubed with the new oil started to slip slightly in D and rough gear changes.

Took in to BMW Indy who advised another tranny oil change due to old oil being in the Torque Convertor TC and the 2 oils mixing. So another oil change
with filter and updated the software on the EGS.
Gear changes alot smoother BUT...................................

Current problem:

Car is slipping ONLY in D (Not in Manuel) Slight uphill and the revs jus revving to 3/4 RPM slight noise, Put it in Manuel moves off no problem.

When in to TRANS SAFE mode under very heavy use code read something like CLUTCH 2 Slipping detected or something to that effect

Spoke to various BMW indys, transmission specialists here is they conclusion but I am confused which one is correct?

Option 1 Indy said:
The new oil has disloged old crude in the tranny which may have worked it s way in to the VALVE BODY and a SOLONOID has become stuck which explains why it only does it in D. The Tranny has to change the gears based on oil temp, torgue, speed so its confused and slipping whereby in manuel you do all the hard work. START WITH VALVE BODY.

Option 2 Indy said:
Complete Tranny rebuild £2200 (People swear by him chap in Potefract Martin Lowe Transmisson)
He said the TC is on its way out and the metal shavings have poss got in to the valve body and contaminated the whole transmission.

Option 3 Indy said:
Torque Convertor is on its way out but not totally. Get the TC recon firm in Sussex £220 recon plus £20 shipping. That may solve the problem.

Option 4 :

Use Lucas Trans Fix and fingers crossed.............

I am confused really getting differing opnions my understanding is you have TORQUE CONVERTOR, VALVE BODY, CLUTCHES. They all say the Tranny itself is SOLID these are the weak parts.

I have read on various forums about the common o ring leaking and causing these issues.

Please ADVISE to poss cause.................. and most economical option for repair as it could not come at a worse time....

[Ricky Bobby]

How many miles on it post drain/fill?

I'm not an automatic trans expert as I drive the "manuel" trans as you so eloquently put it, but if you have over 100k and never drained the trans I wouldn't start doing it above 100k.

If you aren't changing it at 50k or sooner and regular intervals I wouldn't do it at all but thats just my advice, sorry I can't be of much more help but yes it looks like you need to drain it, drop the pan and filter, and clean it out and perhaps a refill to start. Just a drain and fill at higher mileage is not going to help

[ADAM786]

Car has done 109k and the ATF had never been changed. LESSON LEARNED for future ref if it ain't broke don't fix it. Unfortunately I have already changed the tranny oil twice! No joy...

[srmmmm]

I would still try a complete flush using the correct fluid and a new OEM filter. Then, I would drain, install another new OEM filter and refill. I doubt very much you have a torque convertor failing. The flush should clear out the valve body if that's the issue. Beyond that, I have seen the remanufactured (Not just a rebuild) GM transmission available for about $2500 with a three year warranty.

2002 X5 3.0 259,400 miles (original trans fluid)
2004 325i 115,000 miles (original trans fluid)

[ADAM786]

I am using Dexron 6 fluid which the dealer recommend and have changed oil twice checked yesterday oil is still red.
Would Lucas trans fix help or lube guard red

[JCL]

I'd go with option 1. You may need to go further into the transmission if this doesn't resolve it but it is reasonable to start with the valve body.

Indy 2 is trying to scare you with metal shavings. Not likely. The wear material is primarily clutch friction material.

Skip the Lucas magic elixir.

[g300d]

It's not oil mixing. I've done the drain/fill with Dexron VI and there was never an issue, albeit at a much lower mileage (44,000 miles).

I agree with JCL, I suggest starting with the valve body. It's the least invasive. Even if it was not it, it will give you good insight on the health of your transmision without tearing it down yet.

I have seen some info online of the valve body being the cause of some trans problems. Clogging of passages and damaged small parts like pistons and springs could be the culprit, so the suggestion is not far-fetched.

Good luck and hopefully it is not something major.

[RRPhil]

I cover the valve block dismantling in this post http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...-teardown.html, in case it's helpful.

Phil

[sunny5280]

Originally Posted by ADAM786

Car has done 109k and the ATF had never been changed. LESSON LEARNED for future ref if it ain't broke don't fix it. Unfortunately I have already changed the tranny oil twice! No joy...

Ah, but there was a problem:

"Bought it one month ago, gear changes were ok but bit 'rough' so decided on a transmission service..."

The new oil didn't cause the problem...there was already a problem. With that said transmission diagnostics are difficult without actually digging into them. When my GF's daughters Dodge 1500 had a transmission problem no reputable transmission shop would give me a diagnosis until they had pulled the transmission. And the estimates to repair varied from $1,500 - $4,000 depending on what they found once it was pulled.

You could start off with the valve body...my mechanic replaced it in my 2000 X5. Cost of the valve body was $550 (my mechanic obtained it directly from the distributor instead of paying BMW $2,200 for the part).

[RRPhil]

Is the problem you’re having in ‘Drive’ just with 1st gear only? i.e. if you select Manual 1st to move away from rest can you then switch back into Drive once the vehicle is rolling and the transmission will upshift and downshift normally in 2nd, 3rd, 4th & 5th until you slow down enough to require 1st gear to be selected again?

Phil