Warning Light - Stopped Vehicle, will not restart - Page 7

Salty_Dog · #61 10-09-2017, 02:21 AM

Ok, back home
Tried the X5 this morning after it was left sitting for 12 days

Check Battery Voltage - 11.7v

Turn key, Dash lights up, Vehicle cranks slower then normal (12days sitting), but starts fine.
Reverse vehicle out into driveway, test Charging current (14.1v at Battery Terminals)
Test every fuse in rear, right side compartment (all good)
Drive vehicle back into garage, turn off. Try to restart, no dash lights, No start.

The Mrs also noticed the Reverse Sensors were not working either
(something i hadn't noticed, for what its worth)

Wait 30minutes

X5 starts again
Turned off
Tried to start again, dash lights up, now it cranks over fast but No Starting.
Does this for 2 attempts

Remove key completely, re insert, turn, dash lights up, it starts

Turn off
Now won't even restart or crank over.

SWAP BATTERY for a another

2 Non Starts
3rd try it starts.....

Every time it starts, it still has the same warning lights on the dash.

Refit the first Battery, now it will not start after 8 attempts, leaving the vehicle for 1 hour etc.

Sponsored Links

Salty_Dog · #62 10-09-2017, 03:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

I had many of the same symptoms including the transmission failsafe. I got many of the symptoms before realizing my alternator brushes and slip rings were shot, and the trans. failsafe actually happened AFTER replacing the refurbished ALT, I apparently only hand-tightened the nut that holds the alternator power cord and when it fell off (the nut) of course I got terrible voltage/current delivery and led to the trans-failsafe.

I replaced the 8mm nut (eventually months later i found the original on top of the underbelly plate) and after a start or three any dash lights reset themselves.

As mentioned above 'very sensitive to voltage fluctuations'. If you ever had the abs/brake trifecta come on as you came to a stop light, almost a guarantee it's the alternator.

A rebuild kit with slip rings and brushes is about $20, takes an hour or so. The voltage regulator is between $40 and $90 depending which model of alternator you have.

Use the hidden menu to monitor voltage (or I use an app on my phone; dash command); if the voltage ever dips below 13v, and especially as you drop RPM such as coming to a stop, also if the abs trifecta came on with no obvious cause and maybe reset itself once in a while but stays on almost always, again, all points to voltage fluctuations.

These can be caused by the ignition switch apparently, but if you are working on an original alternator, odds-on favorite culprit having just refurbished mine after getting very similar symptoms that were cured by only repairing the alternator nothing else.

Even though i constantly measure a Charging Voltage of 14.1v at Battery terminals at idle revs.
I'd still consider the Alt could be the issue...
Yes, it is an Original Alt.

Sadly, we don't have a Second Key to try you other suggestion
But it is one thing i'd like to do.

Crowz · #63 10-09-2017, 07:01 AM

Just read the entire thread and I don't think it was what I was suggesting so editing my comment out

sgrice · #64 10-09-2017, 08:01 AM

To repeat - my next step would be the ignition switch.

Did you look at the video links in my earlier post? Just for fun see if your passenger or driver side visor lights have any effect on a no start condition. Also there is at least one other youtube video showing testing of the ignition switch.

Good luck.

X53Jay4.8is · #65 10-09-2017, 08:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Salty_Dog

Even though i constantly measure a Charging Voltage of 14.1v at Battery terminals at idle revs.
I'd still consider the Alt could be the issue...
Yes, it is an Original Alt.

Sadly, we don't have a Second Key to try you other suggestion
But it is one thing i'd like to do.

What codes are being generated when the symptoms occur?

upallnight · #66 10-09-2017, 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by X53Jay4.8is

What codes are being generated when the symptoms occur?

He posted these codes.

https://xoutpost.com/1116902-post47.html

upallnight · #67 10-09-2017, 08:57 AM

Sounds like you need to get the EWS aligned with your DME or DDE.

Salty_Dog · #68 10-12-2017, 07:29 PM

Yes, sorry to those that made suggestions
I had very limited time with the Vehicle last time around.

Agreed.....

Alternator
Ignition Switch Mech
or a Check Sum error in ECU seems to be the likely culprits

Letting some so called Euro Car Expert look at it while i'm not there.
He came Day 1 and his OBD2 Scanner wouldn't even connect to the Vehicle because he could not get any ignition he said.... oh dear