Quote:
Originally Posted by shedtastic
So of course as soon as you have the correct technical terms from other members on here, suddenly the search tool delivers much more pertinent results and you realize your 'unusual' central locking issue is not so unusual..
(of course, most cars' previous owners were not so cheap as to leave it until both rear door actuators were kaput..)
So I've ordered a Mabuchi FC-280PC-22125 motor off amazon, and also a Dorman actuator.
I'll see if i can fix the old actuator (excellent write up by oldskewel, https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...or-repair.html but it remains to be seen my drilling skills are up to the job..)
If I manage it - I'll return the Dorman actuator. Otherwise I'll be able to fit that.
I'd like to stick to OEM parts, but I'm not keen to drop $750 on three new actuators.. |
Glad to see that someone else will hopefully try this. Some comments:
My actuator is still working fine. The other 3 are still original and working fine. I think the PO mostly used this truck for a ~60 mile/day commute by himself, so only the driver's door lock actuator got worn out. Something to consider for those who might program all 4 doors to actuate together.
I agree from the symptoms you're reporting that you probably have failed/failing unlocking actuators. The fact that the all lock fine with central locking is a good clue for this. That the problem is worse in colder weather or with a weaker 12V battery makes sense, and points to the actuators as being the problem (vs. needing a new battery or more global warming).
As mentioned in that write-up, I used that Mabuchi FC-280PC-22125 motor since I already had it in-hand from my Honda repairs. But an ideal fit would have been one exactly the same but with the longer shaft and worm gear. Since I did not have one with the longer shaft in-hand (have since bought a few that I have as spares now), I did not try transplanting the worm gear off the original shaft. I just transplanted the new plastic end cap onto the existing shell + rotor (all as described in the writeup). It worked great for me, and would be a safe bet to expect it to work for you, but if you're ordering parts anyway (remember, I did all that blind to what I'd find in there), you might want to get ones with the longer shafts and maybe try putting the gear on there.
Take your own photos as you go. It will make the reassembly much less impossible.
On the rivets, they are not your typical ones that you might already have a riveter for. They are machined steel, tight fitting pivots, etc. You can see a few of them in the photos (but only a few of them need to be drilled out).
The challenge is not in getting them off, it is in being able to basically reinstall something when you're done that does the same job.
So I generally tried to drill them out carefully, drill and tap a screw hole in the center, and then reinstall using a screw of just the right size, with a good washer too. Key things to have are sharp (I used Cobalt) drill bits, a small drill that you can position carefully (or a drill press, which would be ideal), and a good selection of options for the screws/nuts, taps/dies, and washers. You'll want to get the best performance you can out of this thing that used to be a piece of perfectly fitting solid steel, reconstructed after drilling, tapping, etc.
Whenever you finally access the motors in your actuators, I would immediately apply 12V and make a clear note of the rotational direction vs. voltage polarity. Hopefully even your dead motors will move enough to reveal their polarity. You would not be happy to finally get this back together and find out that the motor is driving the wrong way.
12-12-2017, 01:55 PM
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