Front Stabilizer link install question

[X5only]

The online TIS and the TIS that gets installed together with GTI caution that when installing the front stabilizer link, the wrench surface on ball head must be parallel to the shock absorber axle.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...struts/5bVG47n

I did this any way but I'm curious why. Strangely the Bentley manual nor pelican instructions do not mention about this. I looked closely at the install and I don't see why this is necessary. Anyone know? I suspect a lot of people miss this detail when installing the front stabilizer link. But may be it's of no consequence if not followed.

[80stech]

That is interesting. Maybe so next guy can get the wrench on?? I changed mine and didn't pay any attention to that. Surely the ball and socket aren't designed to be positioned a certain way!

[wpoll]

I think they mean the flat face on the side of the wrench must be parallel to the strut - probably to avoid damaging the rubber boot on the ball, either by a sharp edge or by pinching the boot or to ensure that the open ended wrench isn't jammed in the joint. Note that most open-end wrenches are too thick to be used here - you may need to buy a thin wrench or grind a standard one down.

[e39_touring]

Originally Posted by wpoll

I think they mean the flat face on the side of the wrench must be parallel to the strut - probably to avoid damaging the rubber boot on the ball, either by a sharp edge or by pinching the boot or to ensure that the open ended wrench isn't jammed in the joint. Note that most open-end wrenches are too thick to be used here - you may need to buy a thin wrench or grind a standard one down.

This, and I think it's an odd size (either 16mm or 18mm IIRC). Definitely requires a thin wrench to avoid catching the boot and popping it off the other end.

[X5only]

Yeah, makes sense, thanks. It takes an 18mm thin wrench. I got a full set of various sizes from a bicycle shop.

[andrewwynn]

To remove you can cut the boot and use a normal wrench (or vice grips through the boot).

My links were copy-cats (cost less than $25 for both): this part has zero bearing on control and low quality will only affect longevity.

My replacement set had a different size for that "cone wrench" than the OEM. I was however able to simply roll the boot back out of the way to get a normal wrench on the part then roll the boot right back on.

Took under an hour to install both parts. I had my son use a 2x2 and a jack stand to help push the sway bar a little too get the link into place. Simple job 3/10 difficulty.


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[andrewwynn]

Oh: I just saw a new adjustable Crescent wrench that is cut thin at the jaw and work perfectly for this job. I think I'll buy one when it comes time to change my l III links (the ones I changed earlier were actually my wife's)


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[X53Jay4.8is]

I have slender vice grip that I use specifically for situations like this. Works perfectly without destroying the rubber boot on the link.

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by X53Jay4.8is

I have slender vice grip that I use specifically for situations like this. Works perfectly without destroying the rubber boot on the link.

This is also what I use for end link replacements.

[80stech]

Me 3 on the thin, long nose vice grips! I still don't understand the positioning thing though, unless maybe at one time there was some type of boss on the strut to match up with the flats ?