Question: Removing driveshaft without dropping Exhaust

[cn90]

- Hi driveshaft gurus...

- I need to remove the driveshaft to service the Giubo, CSB and Rear CV Joint.

- I HATE messing with the Exhaust, I look at the space between the body and the Exhaust, which looks a bit tight but I think there may be enough space the slide the driveshaft forward to remove it from the car.

- Can someone comment on this issue for me?

Thanks!

[andrewwynn]

The fact that somebody sells two-part drive shafts for the purpose of not removing parts I highly doubt that is possible. If possible I would imagine engine mount loosening and raise the engine to get that extra inch or something along that line. Search YouTube for some outside the box solutions.


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[cn90]

Thanks,

According to Pelican website, they did not even touch the Exhaust...

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...ng_Replacement

[cn90]

Another question re gasket for Rear CV Joint.

- I know I need the paper gasket #18.

- However, PNs #15 and #19 baffle me b/c I look in different forums and cannot find the answer. I don't think I need these parts #15 and #19.

- Can someone who has rebuilt the REAR CV Joint comment on #15 and #19?

Thanks!

[PCH BMW]

Just for posterity - my personal novice answers based on a full service of my 2004 x5 E53 3.0 4x4 / X-drive, automatic transmission. Rear driveline at 140k miles (first DS service).

1. Q. Must exhaust be removed?
A. No.
But I removed The rear segment of the driver side exhaust to gain easy access to the mid and rear Driveshaft components (center support bearing and rear CV joint). 1 man job with spare jack. 2 bolts and 3 hangers. Easy. Off / 10m. On / 15m. Did not need to replace the mesh donut exhaust gasket.
BTW - Bentley service manual is wrong - It says step 1, remove exhaust (the whole thing). Dead wrong. nuts to that.

2. Q. Driveshaft CV service - parts?
A. I did not mess with those two parts. 15 & 19
I did not fully break down the CV joint. No need. rubber Boot looked perfect and 19 is metal.
I carefully pried the thin metal cover off along with the baked on gasket (still sealed) and removed as much old grease (like thick soup) and repacked it with new CV grease. I oh so carefully placed a new gasket on a perfectly clean CV surface (sticky side on CV joint) and centered the clean cover. I temporarily taped it in place with making tape. I Very carefully raised the DS on to a box without knocking the CV cap off and then carefully bolted the rear CV joint to the differential using old bolts, new nuts, and blue thread lock. Next moved forward to mount the flex disk, then center bearing.

3. You didn’t ask but I’m noting my thoughts anyway.
Things that were tricky.
A. Do not waste 3 hours of your life to replace the DS centering sleeve unless it is totally wasted. As far as I can tell it’s only function is at DS install for the 60 seconds it’s useful to center the DS/transmission connection. After you bolt up the DS, the sleeve does nothing. Mine looked okay but it is a cheap part in difficult spot so I thought replace it anyway. I was Wrong! Leave it alone and be happy.

B. Bolt up and unbolt the 3 disk and 1 DS bolts while the DS is out of the x5. Torque settings are substantial and under the x5 there is no way to get a long torque socket wrench on the nuts. Pros must have a torque box wrench or special tool.

C. I put ramps under front tires and heavy duty jack stands at highest setting in the back. Generous space and You will need to rotate the back tires multiple times.

D. Skill level. 2 out of 5. I took my sweet time over 2 days and all-in spent 5 hours not counting 3 on the horrible /unnecessary sleeve, but including setup, cleanup, 20 minute road test. Calling it a 3 hour job is like telling your wife she could pass for 21.

E. At 140k miles, flex disk had small cracks around or near every bolt hole. Center support bearing was 60% okay and rubber had serious crack around the entire ring. Non-serviceable U-joint looked and felt perfect (thank the car gods). I could have waited another 10-15k, but why? The new parts will already outlive the car and I wanted to avoid a failure that could kill the entire DL or push the tranny or diff over the edge. Looking back I should have done it last winter around 125k.

[cn90]

Thanks for the replies...

I last did the Flex Disc, CSB, and re-grease of rear CV Joint in my 1998 528i at 155K.
The most difficult part was dealing with seized exhaust bolts, thus this thread on X5 forum.

You can see the whole saga in the DIY below.


DIY: 1998 528i (160K miles) Giubo, CSB, Rear CV Joint Re-grease
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...php?p=12441134

[PCH BMW]

Cn90. Your write up and pics were great and I used them during my x5 driveshaft service. Top marks for your efforts!

I used the same slow but effective hacksaw blade cut process on the terrible centering sleeve. I wasted an hour on a water+paper towel experiment- no joy. Cut process is the way to go.

[andrewwynn]

This thread is a perfect example of the main purpose of xo. Nice.


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[cn90]

Conceptually, the DS centering sleeve removal is almost like removing the Outer race of the wheel bearing, except that this is a blind hole with no hole from the other side to push the centering sleeve out, thus the wet paper towel trick, hack saw approach etc.

In the thread below, thread #16 said to use a dremel tool!

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-how-to-remove