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#31
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![]() I took the cautious route and bought both 10mm and 11mm deep sockets for the removal process, just in case. You can see them both on the left of the picture above (once again, Koken, 6pt, 3/8" drive). They were cheap enough at about $9 each. And as I mentioned earlier, the jury is out on stud replacement - I'll make that call once I'm in there. Like you, I don't want to risk breaking a stud or stripping the head! ![]()
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Wayne 2005 BMW X5 3.0d (b 02/05) 2001 BMW F650GS Dakar (b 06/01) ![]() |
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#32
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Well after changing out turbo today, I “think” I have an exhaust leak, but can’t see any obvious cracks in manifold. Just black soot on rocker cover heat shield. So might have to look into the cast iron manifold soon. Turbo to manifold bolts were 12mm 12 point socket. I think the manifold nuts to block were 10mm, but may have been 11mm.. I did check for you, but promptly forgot. :p It will be interesting to see how removing manifold through the top goes. With turbo removed it would be pretty easy to get manifold out the bottom I think. (But I f**cken hate that lower alloy engine plate removal!) I did also ponder whether it would be smart to chop the air filter part of rocker cover off, could make up a plate n silicone to connect it back up after jobs done.. stupid engine design that!
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2004 X5 3.0d 2010 X5 40d New Zealand |
#33
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![]() Thanks for the further confirmation on the bolts. ![]() And yeah, I don't like pulling that alloy reinforcing plate either - why do you think I'm even entertaining the manifold change through the top? ![]() As I've mentioned in another thread, I'm starting to see EGR errors from the DDE now, although once cleared they seem to have stayed away. I can definitely hear the exhaust whistling out the crack(s) when coasting down a hill with lots of engine braking (2,500rpm plus..) - a high pitched whistle like a penny-whistle. Looks like I won't get on to this task until later in Sept. - waiting on glow plugs and glow controller now too - finally decided to pull the pin on that job too. ![]()
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Wayne 2005 BMW X5 3.0d (b 02/05) 2001 BMW F650GS Dakar (b 06/01) ![]() |
#34
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Another New Zealander shows how easy changing the exhaust manifold is ?
https://youtu.be/xdMIRg7u8U4 ![]()
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X5 E70 3.0d M-Sport , 2010 Titan Silver , ZF 6HP28, 320hp. ![]() X5 E53 3.0d Sport, 2006 LeMans Blue, ZF 6HP26, diesel . |
#35
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![]() Still waiting on my intercooler gaskets... ![]()
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Wayne 2005 BMW X5 3.0d (b 02/05) 2001 BMW F650GS Dakar (b 06/01) ![]() |
#36
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That was interesting viewing, thanks for the link. Keep the Lipton close by Wayne, you're going to need it.
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Neil 2016 X5 3.0D 2009 X3 3.0D 2005 X5 3.0 Diesel Sport (sold) 2007 320i (sold) |
#37
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Wayne 2005 BMW X5 3.0d (b 02/05) 2001 BMW F650GS Dakar (b 06/01) ![]() |
#38
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Neil 2016 X5 3.0D 2009 X3 3.0D 2005 X5 3.0 Diesel Sport (sold) 2007 320i (sold) |
#39
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Well, I'm glad that's behind me...!
![]() (note: click on the images for larger versions) I started right after work a couple of nights ago, as one of the tasks I had lined up was changing the glow plugs, something that needs to be done on a warm engine. Took about an hour to remove the 3.75 acres of Tupperware to get to the glow plugs... ![]() I applied some penetrating oil to the glow plugs and then replaced the glow plug controller while the penetrating oil did it's work. I then also removed some more plastic and the MAF etc. from the exhaust side... ![]() Changing the glow plugs went well (for which I'm grateful for - I've seen/read too many horror stories about broken glow plugs!). The glow plugs were all easy to remove and very even in colour, with whitish tips and little carbon fouling. The inlet manifold was pretty clean too, for a car with 220,000kms under it's wheels, with almost no carbon build-up to speak of. It was oily inside (of course!) but not to the point where I felt it was worth cleaning out. Next morning it was time to tackle the manifold. You can see it peeking out from under the valve cover/air filter housing... ![]() After removing all the turbo pipework (working from above and underneath via the front splash shield aperture) I could get a decent look at the task ahead - by smart phone camera only, mind you. ![]() ![]() After releasing the clamp for the brake master cylinder vacuum line (at the rear of the air filter housing) and working from the right side of the engine with deep sockets, extensions and a mirror, I got the manifold free. I then found I couldn't manoeuvre it out. The turbo had to be moved. I took off the right front wheel and removed the lower wheel arch splash guard. This gave me access the turbo mount bolts (two of) and after removing these the turbo was free - but still attached the flexible exhaust pipe and with the two oil feed lines still attached. From above, I then removed the pressure modulator that is mounted to the front of the turbo compressor and then released the turbo vacuum actuator mounts, which allowed the actuator to flop about (be careful to support this!). The turbo now dropped down on to the engine mount arm, and this gave me the wiggle room I needed to manoeuvre the old manifold back and down (parallel to the exhaust pipe from the turbo), then up and out between the air filter housing and the A/C pipework. It's out! ![]() ![]() ![]() You can see the start of carbon build-up on the heat shield, from the cracked manifold. The new manifold slipped into place in the reverse path of the old one's removal. New gaskets went it, but not new studs. All the old studs stayed in place when I removed the old manifold, and I figured I was tempting fate by messing with them. Copper anti-seize and new copper nuts and I get on with the job of putting stuff back together... ![]() Checking my work after torquing everything... ![]() I also checked the operation of all the vacuum actuators and EGR etc as I put it all back together... ![]() I was surprised how freely the VGT turbo mechanism worked - clearly the turbo was clean inside, with little carbon build up. This car continues to amaze me... So after another couple of hours buttoning up everything up, I was nearly ready to re-attached the battery and fire it up. After removing the shop towel from the turbo and re-installing the compressor pipe of course! ![]() ![]() After firing it up and going for a short drive to confirm all was well, I ran over the entire car with INPA, erased the historical glow plug errors, checked the injector mass adjustments while running (all perfect!), then re-checked for new glow plug errors (none!). Here's the pile of old bits from this job... ![]() The cracks on the old manifold are easy to see now... ![]() So, there ya go. the manifold CAN be replaced without (completely) removing the turbo or valve cover. But if I was to do it again, I'd probably remove the turbo - and certainly if I had power tools (I had none - hand tools only) I wouldn't be trying to avoid more parts removal. Car is running SWEETLY!!!! Very smooth, quiet, feels more responsive and powerful. Most of which is probably just my own state of mind, after spending so much time inside it!! ![]()
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Wayne 2005 BMW X5 3.0d (b 02/05) 2001 BMW F650GS Dakar (b 06/01) ![]() Last edited by wpoll; 11-06-2019 at 03:48 PM. |
#40
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Neil 2016 X5 3.0D 2009 X3 3.0D 2005 X5 3.0 Diesel Sport (sold) 2007 320i (sold) |
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