How long to get trans fluid up to temp

[jsoto]

Of course, when one seeks a test drive to seek a problem, the problem does not manifest itself. I did a 10 mile drive though - which I think I need a longer drive. Wanted to be more observant on speed, rpm, when the problem goes away (by applying brakes or load), etc

Anyone know how long it takes to get the trans. fluid to temp ?

New reman trans, tq, etc.
Over the course of maybe 4 longer driving sessions, there's been instances where I feel a pretty heavy shudder/vibration around 50-70 when I coast/let off the throttle. I'm thinking torque converter but my dang 10 mile test drive I just did was smooth sailing.

[andrewwynn]

I would bet the shudder is from l suspension eg front ball joint it's the most common shudder mystery source


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[bcredliner]

Originally Posted by jsoto

Of course, when one seeks a test drive to seek a problem, the problem does not manifest itself. I did a 10 mile drive though - which I think I need a longer drive. Wanted to be more observant on speed, rpm, when the problem goes away (by applying brakes or load), etc

Anyone know how long it takes to get the trans. fluid to temp ?

New reman trans, tq, etc.
Over the course of maybe 4 longer driving sessions, there's been instances where I feel a pretty heavy shudder/vibration around 50-70 when I coast/let off the throttle. I'm thinking torque converter but my dang 10 mile test drive I just did was smooth sailing.

I think normal operating temp is about 230 degrees. I suggest using an infrared thermometer to verify fluid temp is at operating temp as time to operating temp depends on circumstances. Inexpensive 'tool' and IMO a must have for DIYer.

[jsoto]

shudder was not there until post r/r. regardless, it actually has new front BJ done in spring of this year.

if one shoots the pan, should I add another 15-20 degrees ontop of the 230F ?

[bcredliner]

Originally Posted by jsoto

shudder was not there until post r/r. regardless, it actually has new front BJ done in spring of this year.

if one shoots the pan, should I add another 15-20 degrees ontop of the 230F ?

No, pan reading will be fine.

There are no coincidences when DIYing. Check the work done. Could be that something was done incorrectly or part failure out of the box.

[740ilDuke]

Spline shafts ok?

What fluid did you use? Im about to go through this.

Thanks!

[jsoto]

Esso. 740, I read your other thread. Might be helpful if you have someone with Ista to read the codes proper. Even the $10,000+ 3rd party Autologic is not as great visibility wise than BMW specific scanners fwiw.

Going to need to plan a day for a longer test drive. I know it's there....the driving over the rumble strips feeling. I just need to determine how long or hot, or whatever to trigger the symptom. I do feel like I may I not be able to duplicate it in certainty consistently. Example, car was plenty hot on a long drive when I shudder manifested once. We made a 2 hr's ish pitstop/ On the 2hr return leg (in which in theory all fluids was plenty hot), I could not duplicate the issue

[jsoto]

Took the car out on a extended drive last night. Varied throttle, feathered throttle, mashed on it, etc.

Gosh. I think just due to new things , I was road testing and ~looking for problems~ and maybe there was none at the end of the day. I drove roads all familiar and I'm going to maybe chalk this up to just road conditions, those monster 315s, road crown, tramiling, asphalt. I could not duplicate the issue at all on roads we drive frequently with the X and it's characteristics.


The 315's are pretty sensitive. There is one stretch of road when I drive to our 2nd house and the it feels like the entire cabin is howling up a storm the entire time we are on this freeway. Just picks up every defects and transmits it back in.

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by jsoto

The 315's are pretty sensitive. There is one stretch of road when I drive to our 2nd house and the it feels like the entire cabin is howling up a storm the entire time we are on this freeway. Just picks up every defects and transmits it back in.

You reminded me of a situation where road conditions brought out a defect I was otherwise unaware of. Two case studies:
1) driving steady state about 70 mph and a gentle right curve sightly uphill and car would shake like a wheel weight fell off the entire 1/2 mile curve. Every time only that curve.

That turned out to be the ball joint on the rear control arm front axle. Eventually started to get shimmy during soft braking from 50mph or so greatly helping in the diagnoses.

2) driving on a brand new asphalt road, started getting a horrible sound/vibration like the road was rough vs smooth. Just in one part of the road it was obvious: that turned out to be a bad wheel bearing. The less smooth road and straight vs curved road masked the bad bearing.

Bad bearing can be about the most difficult thing to figure out but here is my best trick to find a bad bearing: switch out one tire at a time to a thinner spare: I run 255 square setup and through a 235 on and instant howl on a bearing that only sometimes hums.

It also works the opposite way: if you are getting a hum you can put on a skinny spare and eliminate the hum.

The reason is pretty simple: there are two bearing races and under normal circumstances the wheel will be pushing in at the top out at the bottom because the center of the wheel will be outside of the center of the bearing. In my experience that changed between 255 and 245 width. When I use 235 tires my wheels will be riding on the outer race and 255s will load the inner race.

Technically both races always in use but one is holding the weight of the car the other is pushing down to keep the wheel straight up and down.

I have to track down a hum on wife's x that is suspect to be the only wheel bearing I didn't change or the center bearing on the front drive shaft. I'll be swapping spare tire around to each corner to try to find it.