Another e53 key issue thread

[juzzo31]

Hi guys, long time reader first time poster.


I have a 2003 e53 x5 that i am having some odd remote key issues with. the car starts fine and the key works in the door. the interior lights all work fine and there are no blown fuses and the fuel door locks as it should. However, none of the buttons on the remote work, except when i press the central bmw button and the boot release button together the car locks with the remote. no other combination of buttons does anything. i have replaced the key amplifier with no change and i have spoken to scott and he tells me the GM3 is not the issue. so i am at a total loss as to what it could be. i have ordered new keys off ebay in case it is the key, but i dont think it is.


Any help would be greatly appreciated.


TIA

[wpoll]

Not such a strange fault - rather common actually.

There are three functions in the diamond key - one that works with the engine immobiliser system, another that enables/disables the alarm and a third that locks/unlocks doors etc.

The alarm and door unlock are connected but the immobiliser function is NOT related - it is a separate system within the key. This means it is possible for the lock/unlock and alarm functions to fail while the key still works to start the car etc.

Most common issue with key failure is the battery, followed by broken circuit tracks from the key being dropped often.

It may also be that your key has become "un-synced" from the car, although this is unlikely given that a weird combo of button pressed actually unlocks something. Most likely you have broken circuit tracks etc.

An eBay will not work, unless you have access to VERY advanced programming tools.

There are folk that can repair these keys (in the USA anyway...)

[juzzo31]

thanks for the response, i have tried syncing the key with no success, i think you may be onto something with broken tracks on the key, its just odd that it locks with 2 buttons pressed.
i really cant justify the downtime of the car to send the only key i have to america for repair so unfortunately i may need to look at a new genuine key. i was hoping the ebay keys could just be synced like the genuine ones, guess not.

[wpoll]

You may be able to use the eBay key to lock/unlock the car and the genuine key to start it. Put them both on one keyring...

[andrewwynn]

I've repaired a couple of these keys always been broken solder joints. Also the switches fail. The problem with re sync is that you won't be able to reliability bend the board inside to make contact to press the button when needed.

There is a guy that will repair such a problem for about $60 vs replace for $200.

It's rarely the battery but after 15-19 years it's becoming more likely to be battery, but the switches are probably still more likely than the battery.

If you have only one key, get a new one from the dealer, then it will be safe to open up the defective one and fix it. I have some high end solder tools so I can easily reflow all the solder joints. They are small so don't try if it's your first time with small soldering.

[4.8isguy]

There’s a guy off Instagram that recently upgraded my buddy and my diamond keys to the newer style keys with switch blade. We did a few so he gave us a discount otherwise I think he charges 100 a key shipped. You do have to send your ews module with your current key though.

[Russianblue]

Yeah i just did all that myself. Switchblade keys. The standard ebay ones are very nice. REMARKABLY durable so far. I was shocked. anyway, i even bought the programmer and the cheap laser key cutting machine. I never got the cutter to work correctly. The keys would open the door fine, but I couldn't get it to turn the ignition. so i found this guy locally who will laser cut for $30. That was a no brainer.

So in summary, if you want to DIY...
get an AK90 programmer off ebay (about $25)
get key blanks with transponder chips (315mhz US and 433mhz Int'l)
you need to remove the EWS module (easy, but tedious putting back the trim)
read chip on old key.
program chip for new key.
take the key to get cut somewhere.

I've got my "extra key process" down to less than $50 a key now compared to $200 at the dealer. My kid, myself, my neighbors on both side all needed keys for M54 motors. an e46 and 3 Xers. No way i was gonna let $800 fly out the door like that!

[syncrocrick]

Both my factory keys are not working either...the new switchblade key seems awesome! Sending the EWS does not seem that exciting though....

[80stech]

Originally Posted by Russianblue

I've got my "extra key process" down to less than $50 a key now compared to $200 at the dealer. My kid, myself, my neighbors on both side all needed keys for M54 motors. an e46 and 3 Xers. No way i was gonna let $800 fly out the door like that!

You gotta like that!
Which laser key cutter did you get that didn't do the job?

[Russianblue]

Defu Laser Key Cutter 368a. It's the orange and white one that's all over the internet. I got it for like $149 shipped from China. The thing is decently well made. The instructions are HORRIBLY translated. I honestly can't tell why the keys I've cut don't work in the ignition. They look pretty much perfect and typically work in the door locks. I probably cut about 7 or 8 bad ones before i had to move on to other projects.

I think it has something to do with the bits that come with it. They seem to leave a tiny bevel on one side of the channel. May have to do with the direction the bit is spinning. I don't know. Last thing i also need to try is upgrading to carbide bits. Keep in mind most things you order for this machine will take a month to get here on the big raft from the East.

if somebody here wants to try their hand at it they can borrow the machine. Just pay for shipping. It'd probably run $25 to ship it. And if you figure it out, you can have the thing if you promise to cut keys for me for free for life : ) I would be forced to admit personal defeat on this one however!